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Isabel and Boots take me on a guided bike tour of Antwerp. Once we get away from the principal streets, riding through Antwerpo is quite lovely. |
After the late night yesterday, we all slept in. When I finally go downstairs, Boots and Isabel have breakfast waiting. "Do you want an egg for breakfast?" asks Isabel. That sounds good. She pulls out a tiny egg cup on a pedestal and places a soft-boiled egg in it. Strangely, I've never eaten an egg this way, so I pause and observe before proceeding. Boots and Isabel delicately tap the top side of the egg with a knife and then remove the top of the shell. It resembles performing a craniectomy. 😂 Isabel eats her egg through the hole with a tiny spoon while Boots tears pieces of bread to dip in the creamy yolk.
"We were thinking of going to the pool since it's Sunday and warm today. Want to join us? It's a short bike ride to Boekenberg Park," asks Isabel. I love not having a plan and letting the day unfold. "Maybe after, I will show you where I work, and then we can explore Antwerp," says Isabel. Count me in.
While we enjoy breakfast, Boots has one of his vinyls playing. "This is the only record of mine that Isabel will listen to. The others are too heavy for her," says Boots. In addition to being a DJ, Boots is a drummer. Like many musicians, he has played in several bands. We chat about his experiences and influences, which are derived from punk. But this morning, he's playing his Humanity / Empathy record. The record is very subdued, with electronic sounds. It is quite pleasant to listen to and not what I would have expected from a punk band drummer.
When we arrive at Boekenberg Park, there are plenty of people sunbathing. We find a spot and lay out towels. "This is an ecological swimming pool. See all the vegetation behind the fence? The plants filter the water naturally, so the pool is chemical-free. Boekenberg Pool is not like a traditional pool. In fact, it is unfair to call it a pool. It is really more of a pool that has been converted into a pond. The water is much colder than I had anticipated. I swim several lengths of the pool with Boots and Iabel. Then I'm ready to get out. The water is 21 C (69 F). I'd rather swim in the ocean if the water is this cold. 😂 "I don't mind it. It was 18 C (65 F) last week," says Isabel.
I love the concept of creating these types of natural facilities. Belgians are very environmentally conscious, so seeing a facility like this here doesn't surprise me. When I worked for Ducks Unlimited, we restored wetlands. We had several projects where we used vegetation to naturally clean effluent wastewater in cities. Why not broaden the concept to include swimming pools? As I ponder this, I wonder what people back in the United States would think of swimming pools like this one?
Later, the three of us bike to the city center, where Isabel works. Isabel is a healthcare worker and works at this beautiful newly remodeled facility. The facility specializes in mental health. I especially love the raised bed planters where patients and staff grow food. As we tour the facility, it is evident that Isabel is quite fond of the new facility and loves what she does tremendously.
One of the interesting things about Antwerp is that they have concentrated all their industrial development in the port. It's one large disturbed area. Not every city has the luxury of doing this. The wind may not be suitable for turbines in these areas. Nevertheless, I notice how much better the city feels because of this. Antwerp is the second-largest cargo port in Europe.
"The west bank is so nice and green. You'll like it there. We can take the free ferry across," says Isabel. Isabel is right. The west bank of Antwerp is still rural and undeveloped. There are lots of trees and roads for biking. It has grown in popularity recently, which irritates Boots and Isabel. The two want to keep Antwerp from becoming too touristic and overdeveloped. During our time together, we had many discussions regarding the changes they are witnessing in the city.
On the way back to the east bank and the city center, Isabel suggested we take the tunnel. "You have to ride the wooden escalator," says Isabel. This is an experience. We load our bicycles on the wooden moving stairs to descend into and exit the tunnel. A long underground tunnel between the escalators passes under the Schedt River, which we previously crossed on the ferry. It feels strange knowing I am riding my bike under this large river.
I love the aesthetics of the escalator. Even the threads are wooden. Not only does it look amazing, but it has a unique sound that is very different than metal escalators. The wood absorbs some of the vibrations while also dampening the noise. Yet it has a very stout mechanical sound, almost like it belongs in a steampunk movie.
Even though I questioned briefly why I had chosen to come to Antwerp and stay with Isabel, I can't help but feel that I am exactly where I need to be. I've enjoyed my time with Boots and Isabel a lot. It's one thing to rent a bike, and I have done so many times while traveling. But it is an entirely different experience to experience how cyclists live day-to-day without cars.
I found the experience with Isable and Boots really rewarding. It never ceases to amaze me how easy life is when people live simply. There isn't a need to carry much more than what can be stuffed into the saddle bags on a bicycle. The past few days reminded me of when I traveled to Washington, D.C., United States, several years ago. During that trip, a feeling surfaced that I have never forgotten. I spent the entire week without needing a car, and that's when I realized I wanted to be car-independent. It is also one of the reasons why, as much as I love the open spaces of the Intermountain West, United States, I know that I want to live elsewhere.
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