Bruges (Belgium) | A Cup of Happiness (Part 1) - 26 Aug, 2023

There are 30 Churches and Cathedrals in Bruges, a city of about 120,000 people. Of those, about half still hold organized masses, and around 13 can be visited by the public. The Church of Our Lady (background) is the tallest structure in Bruges and the third tallest building made of brick in the world. It stands 115.6 m (379 ft) tall.

"I'm running a bit late this morning. I'll be there as soon as I can, " writes Cami. I write back, letting her know that I have plenty of time to be safe. Cami just recently bought a used mid-1990s Mercedes sedan. She is delighted to have found her independence recently and is quite proud of her car. So, the last thing I want her to do is rush around Bruges and end up on the wrong side of a car wreck.

Cami meets me in the lobby of the Snuffel Hostel. "I used to live near here when I went to school (i.e., college). Now I live outside the city center, and I sometimes forget how long it takes to get here," she says. We sit for a few minutes and get caught up. "Before we get something to eat, I want to show you something. Follow me," says Cami. We walk out of the Snuffel and head north away from her car for a few hundred meters.

"Oh, good. It's open today. See that opening between the two doors? Walk towards the red gate," she says. "This is a special place I used to come to frequently when I lived nearby," she continues. I walk about 40 m (120 ft) and find myself on the edge of a little pond surrounded by mature trees. 

"It's a little place the monastics use, and they frequently leave it open for the public. But most people think it is private, so few people come here," she says. This is incredible! It's a little green oasis in the middle of the city. "I knew you'd like it here," she says. We walk around the little pond and then sit on the bench. "I'm so glad you are here," says Cami. Me too. It feels great to see you again. Bruges is a lovely city. I can't wait to see more of it with you, I say.

We return to her car and drive further into the city center. "When I was in school, I used to always come to Li O Lait coffee shop," says Cami. I love the atmosphere here. "You sit there by the window. That's where I always sat. I know the owner, and they make the best pulled pork bagel and muesli. I'll be right back," she says.

A few minutes later, Cami joins me and hands me a cup of green tea. "Here you go," she says. I look at the cup and smile. This is perfect! It's a great way to describe our time together, I say. Cami nods and smiles.

"I used to live just down the street here. I spent many hungover mornings here. The owner always took care of me," she says with a smile. We continue to chat about Bruges, her experiences, and my travels when the food arrives. "This is so much food, I am sorry. But you really have to try the pulled pork bagel. The muesli is for us to share," she says, half embarrassed. I look down at the monstrous bagel before me and say, I can't remember the last time I even attempted to eat this much food for breakfast. She laughs as I grab my knife and fork. There is no way I am even trying to pick up this enormous bagel. I take my first bite. Wow! This is fantastic, Cami! "You like it? I wasn't sure you would, but I am glad to hear it."

We take our time enjoying the delicious meal, and then I say, I can't believe we ate all that food, Cami. It was so good, though, I didn't want to stop. We both laugh. I would feel like a glutton had Cami not done her share of damage. She also finished her bagel and ate half of the muesli. 

We leave Li O Lait. "You need to see this church. It used to have an amazing organ, but they replaced it with a monstrosity. The new one is so ugly," says Cami. We walk into the church, and I notice the ultra-modern angular organ high up. I whisper to Cami, you weren't joking. It doesn't flow with the aesthetics of the church at all. I can see why you think it's a monstrosity. Then the old organ, which now hangs high on a wall near the side of the church, begins to make odd sounds. "They are tuning the organ. I spent so much time inside organs when I was little. My dad cleaned and tuned organs. You wouldn't believe all the pipes. There are so many you can't see," she says as we look up at the organ.

We discuss how we both like to visit churches and how times have changed. "It makes me sad that so many churches have become museums. The people that visit them have little respect for the sacred, and it feels like the churches are dying," says Cami. Yes, I've noticed that in my travels. Churches used to be the anchor point of communities. Now, the number of people practicing in an organized institution is declining every year, I say. I wonder periodically what will happen to churches in the future. Will they find another purpose and become relevant again, or simply become relics of the past? 

After telling me that her cousin lives near this church, Cami says, "Maybe we can meet up with her later? But now we should take the canal tour. I've never been on the boat, and in the summer, the lines are so long that I have no interest in doing it. Want to go?" she asks. You bet! I really enjoyed the one in Amsterdam with Stephan and Saskia and would love to experience Bruges from the water, I reply. 

The canal tour boats are much smaller in Bruges. They hold about 18 people, and in the photo below, we pass another tour vessel. Our captain is a blond woman. She speaks both English and French and repeats everything she says in the other language. She even attempts to be funny, but her humor sounds forced. Nevertheless, it helps make the tour more entertaining.

The building in the background was an old quarantine facility. During the Middle Ages, people who entered the city needed to stop at this building, which served as a quarantine facility for the Bubonic Plague. People would enter the building from the canal near the end of the building under the slanted roof.

The roof lines in Bruges began to be constructed with steps, which formed a stepped steeple. Our guide informs us that the more steps appeared on the top of the house, the more wealthy someone was. In addition, it was believed that when a person had more steps, they were able to get closer to God.

We step off the boat after 45 minutes. That was great, and we had perfect weather, I say. "I learned so much about my city on this tour. I've lived here almost 10 years and didn't know some of these things," says Cami. Our guide did a great job, minus a bad joke or two. Now I have a better feel for Bruges. It is a beautiful city. I understand why you love living here, I say with a smile. "I am so glad you like Bruges, says Cami.

The two of us walk around Bruges after the tour. As we do, I remember why I enjoyed Cami's presence on the Camino so much. She is like a cup of happiness and is always in a great mood. From the moment I met her, it has always felt like we have known each other for a very long time. Sometimes I forget we are decades apart.

"Want to go to the park and sit for a while," says Cami. Yeah, I'm in...