Bordeaux (France) | Return to the City of Wine - 25 Jul, 2023

The Porte Cailhau (Cailhau Gate) is still as impressive as I remember. The vast gate was once one of six gates that once protected the Medieval City of Bordeaux. I took shelter from an unexpected thunderstorm under the gate.

 

The last couple of days of rest did me a world of good. Leaving for Bordeaux this morning, I feel rested and ready for the next adventure. There is no direct route to the Netherlands from where I am. Flying on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays is always less expensive. In this case, my ticket cost about 1/4 the price. So I decided to spend a couple of days in Bordeaux. The City of Wine made a strong impression when I visited last year. Since I fly out of this beautiful city on Tuesday morning, I want to see if I still feel the same way about it now.

Céline drops me off at the train station in Langon around 1130 am. "Don't worry about me. I'll be fine. Everything will work itself out with my car. Enjoy your time up north, and say hi to Cami and Ivo for me," she says, smiling. I nod in agreement. "Thank you for sharing your time with me. It was wonderful walking with you again. Enjoy your time with your boys. See you soon," I say as I climb onto the train. 

After finding a seat, the train begins to move. I reflect on how Céline and I never say "Goodbye" to each other. We have always said, "See you soon." It has been that way since we met on the Camino last fall. As I ponder this, I realize I generally never say "Goodbye" nowadays. I've decided that this is why I frequently see people again in my travels. The word "Goodbye" seems so formal and definitive to me. When someone says "Goodbye" to me, it is time to part ways. Reflecting on this, I realize this is left over from my divorce. I am alright with this interpretation, and it is a word I reserve for rare occasions.

I enjoy returning to places I have visited before. I especially love spending time in France and the lifestyle here. It is also easy when I already have great places to stay. This time I made a reservation at Jost Hostel, near the Train Station in Bordeaux. The hostel had just opened in July when I was here last year. Although it was only their first day, and everything was new, they had a long way to go before they were fully operational. This time I am delighted to see that the facility and staff have developed into a top-notch facility. This makes it a bargain. The price per night is only 30 Eruos, which is cheap for Bordeaux, and it is only a 5-minute walk to the train station.

I am excited to be back in the City of Wine! I notice that Bordeaux still has that effect on me. This is now my 3rd time in Bordeaux. There's something comforting that I really enjoy about this city. I feel content as if I could settle here. I don't see myself living in a big city. However, Bordeaux feels like it has less than 1M people. The food and wine culture pair nicely with the city's beautiful architecture. I especially love the outdoor dining in Bordeaux. The one thing I don't like about the city is that it is always hot here. 

Once settled, I decided to walk downtown, which took me about 40 minutes. It is overcast and a bit humid today. As I wander the city, I have difficulty deciding where to eat. I pause and remember that this has happened in Bordeaux and other cities. There are so many places to choose from and tasty menus that I get lost flaneuring my way around the city. When this happens, I notice I am looking for the right ambiance more than a specific menu item. How lucky am I? I love having options. 😃

However, tonight, a thunderstorm settles in my decision is simplified. I take shelter under the la Porte de Cailhau as the rain falls. Finally, after 20 minutes, I toss in the towel and walk a few hundred meters to Le Cabanon Marin restaurant. 

The grilled sea bass and baked potato with half a dozen oysters for the entree hit the spot. But I prefer the grilled sea bass I had in Albania, to be honest. Albanians fry the fish so it has this super crispy skin which gives the fish a wonderful taste. Tonight's dish a good, and I enjoy the atmosphere too.

The Place de la Bourse looks beautiful with the wet stones after the rain.

The next day, I decided to catch a movie to escape the humid hot air. It has been a long time since I have seen a film in French. This will be a good experience for me as it will undoubtedly test my oral comprehension. Je Verrai Toujours Vos Visage or in English (All Your Faces), is a film that explores Restorative Justice. Restorative Justice is controversial in France, although it is practiced more broadly in the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Australia, Germany, and Japan.

The premise of Restorative Justice is to heal both victims and perpetrators (i.e., prisoners) through a collaborative process whereby victims are allowed to confront perpetrators. The victims and perpetrators are not tied together directly via their crimes. Instead, a small group of victims can engage prisoners incarcerated for a similar crime that they experienced. Likewise, through conversations, the prisoners can understand the victim's point of view and how their actions and rationale impact others. 

The movie theatre is stunning and is made of limestone to match the other buildings in Bordeaux.

Only a dozen people are in the theatre with me, most of whom are much older than me. I look around and notice that the 2 pm show is very popular with retirees. I feel right at home. 😂 The film was fascinating and captivating for a movie centered on conversations primarily. When the movie started, I began to wonder if I would be able to follow the dialogue or the accents. I was pleased that I had no issues following along for the most part. There were a couple times when a new phrase came up. In those situations, I was able to understand the context. Then as I followed along, it was usually explained or used again later in the film.

After the movie, I passed by the Pey-Berland Bell Tower was built in 1440 A.D., specifically for the 11-ton (1,000 kg) tenor bell of the Saint-André Cathedral. The free-standing tower houses the 4th largest bell in France and was one of the tallest buildings at 66 m (216 ft).

Bordeaux was once a filthy city due to the oxidation of the limestone. There are few buildings left that have not been restored. Previously, I had difficulty finding examples contrasting the old and newly restored buildings. Today, I wandered into the right part of the city and found this example of the two buildings. An extensive restoration effort is underway to restore the city's beauty using lasers to remove oxidation. 

Wandering through the Place du Parlement (Parlament Square), a large square surrounded by restaurants, I pass by a familiar site. I laugh when I see that Chez Jean is now permanently closed. This explains why my Wild Boar was overcooked. 

Not far from La Place Saint-Pierre (Saint-Pierre Square), I find a menu that intrigues me at Chez Les Ploucs. Uncle Arsene's Big Salad is an incredible salad consisting of candied gizzards, bacon, lettuce, and tomato, topped with a slice of breaded forcemeat. This salad was way bigger than I expected and a bit heavy. Had it not been so good, I would have left some. The candied gizzards were very tasty. I was surprised at how much I enjoyed them.

Tonight, I ordered their complete meal with entree, main dish, and dessert. The main dish is half of a duck breast with a honey sauce, grilled potatoes, and arugula rocket salad, as it is known in Europe.

I love bread pudding, and tonight I'm in luck as the special is a caramel bread pudding. 😀 The pudding is a great way to finish off a good meal. 

It feels strange to eat in restaurants on consecutive nights after spending the last two weeks eating home-cooked meals. Although I enjoyed this meal, I already found myself craving more vegetables. I didn't expect to adapt to it, nor did I think I would miss a vegetarian diet. During the last two weeks, at Plum Village and walking the Valley of the Célé, I've eaten very little animal protein and am surprised by my body's reaction. 

After this meal, I feel weighted down. It's a feeling that I haven't experienced over the last two weeks. My body is telling me it is time to change my eating habits, and it is time I listen. 😂