Plum Village (France) | Peace in Oneself - 18 Jun, 2023

This is one of the few pictures I took while visiting Plum Village. The Pagoda is located at Upper Hamlet, where I stayed for the week.

Each fall, Bazas hosts a festival in honor of the Common Wood Pigeon. The Palombe (i.e., Wood Pigeon) migrates throughout France each October. People gather in Palombières to shoot or trap this large Pigeon as it migrates through France for a few weeks each fall. I am intrigued by this tradition. I generally do not consider hunting an important activity in France. However, this festival appears to be very important in Bazas. I need to explore how hunting works in France and learn more.

I am looking forward to arriving at Plum Village today. As I gather my things, Céline asks if I want to have lunch with her friends before arriving at the village this afternoon. "Manu (short for Manuel) and Fanny live in Hamlet. Once per week, those who live there have a community lunch and practice mindfulness together in the tradition of Plum Village," she says. I'm not sure what a Hamlet is, but it sounds like an exciting experience. Céline laughs and proceeds to tell me what a Hamlet is. I remember my conversation with Frank in Malinbeg, Ireland, where we discussed what qualifies as a community or town. Frank said a post office and store needed to be present to qualify as a town. A loose community of houses lacking these things is referred to a Hamlet in France.

About 40 minutes northeast of Bazas, near Plum Village, is where Manu and Fanny's Hamlet is. Their house is located down a tiny two-track road. Five others live on this road. After arriving, Céline introduces me to Manu. Manu has a gentleness to him that is very calming. He invites us to join him and others in walking meditation around the property, followed by mindful group lunch. "These are practices you may not know yet, Martin, but you will soon learn at the village," says Manu.

By the time Céline drops me off at Upper Hamlet of Plum Village, I find that I am relaxed and tranquil. I tell Céline I'll see her soon and look forward to walking with her along the Valley of the Célé next week. Then I proceed to the administration desk to check-in. I notice I have no cell service. This makes it easy to stow my phone for the week. I notice how great it feels to know I won't see my phone for a week.

Soon Brother Dihn Thành and a younger layperson from London, United Kingdom named Micheal greeted me near the registration office. They offer to take me to Son Ha, where I'll stay. Brother Dihn Thành is a French monk ordained about a year and a half ago and practicing at Son Ha. Dihn Thành and I bond quickly. He is happy to have someone else at Son Ha who speaks French. I am surprised to learn that English is more commonly spoken here. "Plum Village has three Hamlets, Upper, Lower, and New Hamlet. Lower and New Hamlet are where women and our Sisters practice. Upper Hamlet is mostly men and Brothers, but you will also find couples staying there now. Son Ha is the smallest and only location that is entirely men and Brothers," says Brother Thành.

Micheal is in his early 30s and is 6 months into a 1-year stay at Plum Village. "I am a long-term guest at Son Ha. There are three long terms at the moment at Son Ha. You will be 1 of 7 short-term guests this week. Short terms are here for 1 or 2 weeks. Son Ha is lovely because it is very intimate with only 10 laypersons here and about half the Monastics," says Micheal.

After setting my things down, Brother Dihn Thành shows me the dining and meditation halls. "We will meet here every morning and evening for meditations. Feel free to pick any place which does not have a nameplate. Nameplates are cushions for the monastics. We wake at 600 am and begin meditating at 630 am. Evening meditations begin at 630 pm. A bell will ring 15 minutes before all activities start as a reminder," says Brother Thánh.

Even now, I feel a strong sense of equanimity when I look at the photo below. During my stay, I used the cushion in the bottom left of this picture. The meditation hall in Son Ha is the smallest and most intimate of the halls in Plum Village. The meditations hall at Upper, Lower, and New Hamlet are considerably larger. Upper and New Hamlet are large enough to seat several hundred people. Unlike the one at Son Ha, they also have windows too.

"Breakfast is usually around 7 am. The actual time will be written on the agenda board in the dining hall, as will all activities for the day. We also practice mindful eating here. During the first 20 minutes of each meal, there is no talking. You serve yourself and do your own dishes when finished. After 20 minutes, a bell will ring. Conversations can then take place. Lunch is formal. All monastics will be here, and we stay seated until the bell rings," says Brother Thành as he continues informing me of Son Ha's practices. Once finished, he excuses himself and encourages me to settle in and explore before dinner.

After making my bed, I head out to explore the forested area around Son Ha. There is little to Son Ha compared to Upper Hamlet. One of the benefits is it is located adjacent to a pine plantation. Even slowly wandering along the trails, I reach the edge in about 10 minutes. The stand of trees is not very big.

Nevertheless, birds are singing everywhere. I even cross paths with a 46 cm (18") snake. When I noticed it had a pointed tail and round eyes, I knew it was not poisonous. Once it catches my scent,  it slithers away into the brush. It resembled a racer, but I needed to familiarize myself with French snakes to identify it correctly.

I return to Son Ha in time for dinner and join the small queue. All meals are vegan, cooked by the monks, and served buffet style here. I can take as little or as much as I want from each dish. There is a combination of freshly cooked items and leftovers from yesterday's dinner and lunch today. I grab a plate and dish it up. Looking around, I quickly realized that bowls are the preferred dishware, not plates. 

Throughout Son Ha are several of Thich Nhat Hahn's calligraphies. The style reminds me of a Buddha board. One, in particular, catches my attention tonight. 

As I stare at the calligraphy, I can't help but wonder what that feels like. Already I find myself pondering things I have not previously allowed myself to ponder. I've been here less than half a day and am already feeling this. What will the week bring? Could it be so simple as to simply find peace in one's self to find peace in the world? Could this be something I have been overlooking?