Bazas (France) | Nature, the French Way - 15 Jun, 2023

I noticed this patch of wildflowers growing In between a couple of the cemetery plots yesterday. The beautiful bright colors were a lovely contrast to the dull greyish-black stones in the cemetery. Since I began traveling, I have developed a fondness and appreciation for wildflowers. Not only do I enjoy the bright colors, but I love to discover what plants produce these lovely flowers.

It is around 30 C (86 F) today, so Céline offers to show me around Bazas, France, before heading to the coast to find the beach. This is the first time I've felt this warm since arriving in Europe, and it feels nice. Bazas, France, is a small town about 30 minutes by train southwest of Bordeaux, France. The village of approximately 5,000 people is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the only cities in this area to have a cathedral.

The first stop today is a nature preserve along the Ciron River, a tributary to the Garonne River. The entire 97 km (60 mi) tributary is protected. "There are several beaches along the Ciron with great swimming holes. Sometimes I bring my kids to swim here during the summer," Céline says. This is a lovely area. I reply that it is one of the few areas in this region that feels natural to me. "There are many trails that follow the banks of the Ciron," she continues as we begin walking one of them. I can appreciate why this area is so special. It feels great to be here, even if the "green ribbons" only extend 50-100 m (150 - 300 ft) from the bank of the river. Once I am here, I hardly notice that the green belt is so small.

After a short hike along the Ciron, we pass an old grain mill. The setting is serene, and I can already feel the sun warming up the day. The water is so still that the reflection of the image in the river is even more vivid than the image above. 

I follow Céline back to the car. "Are you ready to go to the beach?" she asks. My day is wide open, and I would love to see the Atlantic Ocean again. I hope it is warmer than the Mediterranean in Italy, I say, laughing. As we head west towards the coast, we discuss the landscape we traverse. "During Napolean's time, pine trees were planted throughout the region here. Today the trees are still harvested but used primarily for wood pulp. Just like the Eucalyptus in Spain," she says. 

The road takes passes what seems like an endless abundance of pine plantations. The trees are even age and nicely planted in rows and columns. I notice there is a general lack of native vegetation in this area. Coming from North America, it is hard for me to refer to these small stands of pines as forests. I can traverse most on foot in under 10 minutes. The pines yield to the occasional farm field. In the background of the photo below, stands of pine trees cover the horizon on this beautiful day.

About an hour later, we arrive at Contis Beach. A small trail traverses a stand of pine trees, which subsequently yields native Cork Oaks. Céline grabs a piece of the bark and squeezes it between her fingers. "These oak trees have cork for bark which can be harvested without killing the trees," she says as she hands me the springy cork she removed from a young tree.

The trail follows the Inlet of Contis, a small river-like channel where the ocean mixes with fresh water from the uplands. Across the channel is the beach commune of Contis. Céline informs me that Contis is a popular destination for camping but is not formally a village, as very few people live there outside of the summer season.

After a short walk, the small stand of trees soon yields undulating dunes. The sand is too hot to walk on, and the Atlantic looks inviting. Fortunately, I brought my sandals. The water is a pleasant temperature. It is not quite as warm as when I was in Spain last fall. However,  it is warmer than the Mediterranean in Italy. This makes it a perfect day to swim! 😁

The sun begins to hide behind the clouds that have moved in. So, Céline suggests we visit Contis. "Maybe we can find a place to snack and drink something," she says. Contis reminds me of a beach town without much development and amenities. It is similar to the ones I saw in Mexico this winter. There are a few restaurants, most of which are closed. I am ahead of the tourist season, and Contis has a gentle, relaxing vibe today. Though looking at the restaurants and shops, I sense the commune can also be chaotic and busy later in the summer.

We find a rooftop bar. "Do you want to try the Chipirons?" Céline asks. What is that? After some back and forth and a few laughs, I realize Chipirons is the Basque word for baby squid. I'd love to try them again, I tell her. The last time I had them in Croatia, they were overcooked, and I was disappointed. The waiter brings a small bowl of grilled Chipirons in Balsamic reduction sauce and a few toothpicks. The tiny, tender morsels of baby squid are cooked perfectly and are a joy to eat. The white wine, Entres-deux-Mers, pairs nicely with this light appetizer. I had forgotten how lovely the Entres-Deux-Mers wine is. I first tasted it last summer during one of my wine-tasting days. It comes from a region south of Bordeaux, France, and is very easy to drink and versatile. This is why it is one of this region's most popular white wines.

The view west, towards the ocean, from the rooftop bar in Contis.

Tomorrow, I head to Plum Village, so rather than stay late in Contis, I suggest to Céline we head back while we still have daylight since we have more than a 1-hour drive back. She likes the idea. From the car, I take this photo of the sun setting behind a young plantation of pines. In 25 years or so, these trees will be ready for harvest. But tonight, their outlines remind me of the Mexico desert which I love so much.😀