Siracusa (Sicily, Italy) | Imperfect Beauty - 22 May, 2023

I took this photo at Playa Ognina while riding to Fontane Bianche from Siracusa. Even though the Mediterranean Ocean is incredibly inviting, the water this time of year is too cold for extended swims.

 

It's been a while since I have taken the time to ride a bike during my travels and back in the US. It is one of the few things I really miss that I used to do before I left. The other activity I miss is Yin Yoga. Road biking is a fantastic way to maintain and improve my cardiovascular endurance. This, in turn, has improved my hiking endurance substantially. Plus, I enjoy the serenity it provides. I've only been on a bike once since leaving, when I rented a road bike in Lourdes, France.

The weather is fantastic right now. It is in the low 20s (70s) with few clouds. I have had a few days like this, so I take advantage of it and rent an e-bike. I plan to bike to Fontane Bianche, about 24 km (15 mi) south of Siracusa. This is a distance that I would easily do on my road bike. However, it has been a while, and the only bikes I can find to rent are cruiser bikes. They are less efficient with their larger tires and heavier weight, so given the distance, paying a few extra euros for an electric version makes sense.

My bike ride takes up most of the day. The weather is perfect, and I spend it enjoying the ride. Not taking photos. The road to Fontane Bianche follows smaller, less frequently traveled routes through the countryside. There are a few cars, and I love this. One of the things I genuinely love about bike riding is exploring these types of areas. It is the next best thing to being on foot for me. Once I arrive in Fontane Bianche, I take a photo of the bay (below). The water is clear and inviting. After a simple sandwich for lunch, I find my way to the beach and enter the water. I don't linger long. The water is much colder than when I last entered the Mediterranean or the Atlantic. 

I return to Siracusa a bit past 7 pm. My butt is sore. Even with the e-bike, I notice I am noticeably tired. I rode nearly 50 km today. That is a lengthy jaunt, even with an e-bike! I am glad I did it. It was a great way to spend the day. The whole day's rental cost me 25 euros.

Near my apartment is a small church, Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista. As I take this photo, I overhear a tour guide telling a small group, "This church has a long waiting list for weddings. People often wait two years or longer for a wedding ceremony." I can appreciate why after seeing this beautiful church. As I take this photo, I ponder why we install a roof on churches. I sit with this question and notice I feel very comfortable in this church. It's a similar feeling to when I visit ruins of churches or abbeys that lack roofs. It is like the air is lighter. There's a connection to the natural world that exists here that is noticeably absent when I visit traditional places of worship. There's beauty that resonates with me in the imperfection I see.

On the south end of the island of Ortigia is Castello Maniace. Before entering, I visit a sign near the edge of the cliff. It commemorates Enzo Majorca, the first man to freedive below 50 m (165 ft) without scuba gear. Enzo pioneered freediving and eventually held the record for 101 m (331 ft) in 1988. Today the world record is 253 m (830 ft). I remember watching a documentary detailing this dangerous sport and how two factions developed. One promoted safety, while the other chose to simply dive, resulting in the death of a very talented young woman diver. You can read more about the history of freediving and Enzo Majorca and how the sport started on the link before.

Although there are many sites to see on the mainland, including visiting Greek ruins, Castello Maniace draws my attention. Situated at the island's north end, I love how it dominates the peninsula.

Entering Castello Maniace, I can already tell the place has a fascinating history. I walk past several displays on the way to the ticket counter. All are artifacts that have been collected in the castle. I stop to admire this pottery display. First, it is the brilliant blue colors that catch my attention. I've seen many similar shows, but few have such bright blue colors. As I look more closely, the subtle complexity of the designs draws me in further. Then I find the reason why I stopped. I love how the pieces are assembled from fragments. Most vases and plates have pieces that are missing.

Nevertheless, even without the missing pieces, they would still be helpful today in their current state. It reminds me that life doesn't need to be perfect to be enjoyed. What is important is the present moment. I don't need to wait until all the pieces are filled in. I just need to be creative to adapt what I have to my needs so I can enjoy the present moment.

The first hall I reach inside the castle is a magnificent room with a fantastic ceiling. I've seen this style of Gothic ceiling with massive arches in many buildings, including churches and cathedrals. However, this is my first time seeing it built this way. The black bricks, which I assume are volcanic, give the room an incredible depth. One of my favorites that I have seen in my travels. It is truly stunning.

The main entrance door to the castle is stunning as well. I noticed at least three different marble colors: black, white, and rose. It resembles the door on some cathedrals I've seen without all the religious carvings. However, this simple entrance resonates more with me. 

Although I appreciate the beauty of carvings, sculptures, paints, and decorations, I connect more with natural materials in my travels. A marble that is carved to form, not details. The stone is void of color. These are the materials, techniques, and places that resonate with me most. It reminds me to be straightforward with my decorations in the future. There is beauty in subtly and imperfections of natural materials.

I have yet to see many sunsets while in Italy, but when I have the opportunity to catch one, I enjoy it. Unfortunately, this was the only sunset I was fortunate enough to see while in Siracusa due to the clouds and rain. Luckily I find a little bar near the water edge on the west side. I order a glass of wine and watch the sun descend on the horizon. 

After the sunsets, I start finding my way back. I pass a restaurant that has all their tables painted. I love this one with the bright green fish with the pink fins. It looks like a child drew and colored it. Indeed, not something I would have ever considered having on my porch in the past. And certainly never if I had drawn and painted it myself. Yet, there is a simple beauty in the imperfections I see here. I notice a desire to do something similar rising in me. Sitting with this, I envision myself sitting at a little table like this on my patio, enjoying a glass of wine. Where could I find such a little table to paint?