Siracusa (Sicily, Italy) | - 6 May, 2023

In Siracusa, I stayed in Ortigia, the ancient city center of Siracusa. Ortigia is technically an island that is accessible via several bridges that connect it to the central part of Sicily. This view of Ortigia is from the northeastern part of the island, looking south toward the end of the peninsula where Castelo Maniace (i.e., the castle at the end of the peninsula) is located.

And so, how was my retreat in France? I’ll revisit it in the blog, when the days align with my travels. For now, it’s time I spent.

Sicily has a great feel, and I now realize it isn't just Catania. The trains in Sicily are some of the most modern ones I have encountered thus far in my travels in Italy. However, the train station in Siracusa is far from contemporary and somewhat isolated from Ortigia. Nothing that a 40-minute walk can't fix.

I've already shared my LOVE of small local markets. So after dropping my pack at the small apartment, one of the first things I do is to return to the outdoor market I passed on the way in. The market lies on the other side of the Temple of Apollo, one of the first ancient sites I encountered when I arrived in Ortigia. The Old Market is visible through one of the arches of the temple. 

This market not only has lots of fresh produce, but several vendors sell local cheeses, cured sausages, and other locally prepared delicacies. I flaneur my through the market, letting my senses guide me. That looks interesting! Wow! That smells great! 

Finally, I purchased a few items after wandering the market several times. I enjoy absorbing everything to see and smell before deciding on my purchases. Often I overlook things the first time through. Usually, when I relocate frequently, I avoid taking fresh items with me. However, I plan to be here for 4 days this time. I love experiencing local flavors.

I purchased a couple different cheeses, some local produce, bread, and pickled caper berries. I chose pecorino cheese which is made with sheep's milk and peppercorns. It is available in several different age classes. I purchased two. One was aged several months, and the other was aged for > 15 months. Both were excellent and surprisingly quite different. The younger cheese is semi-hard, mild in flavor, and great for eating with charcuterie, sandwiches, and other snack items. The older cheese is very dry and has an intense salty flavor. It crumbles easily and is hard to cut with a knife. I enjoy both kinds of cheese very much. I especially love the taste of the older pecorino. It resembles parmesan cheese and would be best used grated on pasta.

Later, I returned to the same market and experimented with baked and dried ricotta cheeses. The baked ricotta was very mild in flavor and had a soft texture. It held together much better than in its fresh form, but I found it lacking and bland in taste. The texture is lovely, and it was an excellent cheese for sandwiches. However, the dried ricotta cheese is fantastic! It is semi-hard and has a deliciously mild and salty flavor. There are so many great things to eat and sample here in Sicily. I wish I could have access to these foods all the time!

One of the things I love to do periodically when I am in the States is visit bookstores. I can spend hours in a store looking at and waiting for the books to speak to me. I can't explain how it happens. It just does. I've picked up and read some great books doing this. I rarely visit bookstores when I travel through. However, when I pass this little bookstore, it calls to me, and I enter. They have several books in English that pique my interest. However, I photographed the book titles to add to my reading list. I don't want to carry any books with me at the moment. Instead, I buy several hand-drawn postcards. I don't know why. Apart from when I was in Spain, I've noticed that the postcards I send seldom find their way to their destinations. 

Later, I find a small family-run restaurant. After seating me, the waiter, an older Italian man, tells me, "My wife is the cook. All our seafood is fresh from today." At the market today, I noticed a vendor selling sea urchins. So when I saw it on the menu tonight, I decided to try them. After I order the spaghetti with sea urchin, I watch him bring out a large platter with 8 different types of fresh fish for the table next to me. It is an amazing and colorful display! It is also a great way to connect people with their food! 

The pasta in Italy is fantastic! I don't usually eat spaghetti, but here it is not only cooked perfectly but it is sauced just right. As I eat my spaghetti, I notice it is served simply with olive oil. The sea urchin (i.e., orange pieces) is very delicate and light in flavor. Nevertheless, it was a good meal and made me appreciate the wonders of not over-saucing pasta and letting it shine!