Milazzo (Sicily, Italy) | My Future Falls Into Place - 28 May, 2023

The walk from the train station in Milazzo, Italy, begins along this quiet, shaded road. It's approximately 3 km (1.8 mi) to my apartment. This is a nice break from the usual sites I see (i.e., traffic, apartment buildings, stores, etc.) leaving a train station.

I arrive in Milazzo in the early afternoon. I have plenty of time to wander the marina and inquire about ferries. My apartment today is a newly renovated Bed and Breakfast. An older man arrives and meets me at the door. He speaks only Italian. I am the first guest to stay here. The other three rooms still need to be finished. Soon his phone rings. He answers it and hands it to me. It is his granddaughter. She speaks a bit of English. She informs me there was a mix-up on their end, and they were supposed to wait to open for a few days but are thrilled to have me stay. Her grandmother will be over later to help me settle in.

Milazzo is only a 15-minute train ride west of Messina, Sicily. 

I've passed a few of these rodent traps in other parts of Italy and Sicily. Sometimes they are tied to polls for road signs. It's a reminder that mice and rats are present even if I don't see them. But it also makes me wonder what else is present that I don't see?

Near the marina, I find the Siremar office. Good thing I only booked for one night in Milazzo. The ferry leaves for Naples on Thursday nights. It's a 13-hour overnight ferry that arrives in Naples on Friday morning, and my first culinary class is Thursday night. So, I am also not thrilled about leaving at 8 pm and arriving at 9 am a day late. Plus, if I am going to be on the ocean on a boat, I prefer to travel during the day. This makes my decision easy. Naples by train it is. It's good not to rush things.

Near the marina, I pass this group of older gentlemen playing cards. Most are paired up and use a sheet of cardboard as a tabletop to keep the cards from sliding through the slats on the bench. I stop and watch them play for a bit before moving on. They remind me of when I was young and walked with my grandmother in Longueuil, Québéc. I remember we walked everywhere. I always enjoyed walking with her. We frequently encountered older folks playing chess or cards in the park. I asked her once if she knew how to drive and why she didn't use her car? "I know how to drive, and I have a nice car [a late 60's green Chevrolet Nova if I recall], but I prefer to walk. I have access to all I need, so why drive?" she told me. It is nice to be reminded of her today. I walk for similar reasons these days.

Milazzo is the gateway to the Aeolian Islands just off the coast of Sicily. However, most people spend little time in the city and use it primarily as a connection point. Nevertheless, the town has a considerable charm, and I am glad to be exploring it, though briefly.

The boardwalk along the marina is busy this afternoon. I notice that the majority of people are Sicilians of all age groups. There are families, singles, old and young. Everyone appears to be enjoying the beautiful sunshine today. Myself included. For the second straight day, I've been able to wear shorts. When I left the frozen plains of Idaho and Colorado, I thought I would be enjoying the warm sunshine in Italy. Unfortunately, that simply has not been the case, and I can count the number of days I have worn shorts on one hand. Most have been in the last two days.

Near the end of the marina, I find this old wash basin. The wash basin is adjacent to the beach, and several faucets hang from the wall. The sign tells me the wash basin was a central gathering place for laundry in the old days when fresh water was rare. The basins still function today but are used by fishermen to clean their catch.

Castello di Milazzo sits atop the peninsula just above the town. The massive fortress covers 14,000 sq meters (3.5 acres). This link provides a beautiful aerial view of Milazzo, the castle, and the charm of this quiet little town. Unfortunately, the sun is setting when I climb up to the castle. I wanted to see a glimpse of the peninsula with a coastal winery. Unfortunately, Capo Milazzo is another 40 minutes walk from the castle.

I pass this building covered in vines on my back to the town. It draws my attention. First, it has a fair bit of charm. Second, it makes the hairs on the back of my neck stand up as it looks like something out of a horror movie. 😂 I love experiencing these sensations. Third, it reminds me to connect to the why behind these sensations.

Another example is when I pass this furniture store. I love the simplicity of the furniture. But as I stopped and looked around, I noticed it was different from the furniture style. Instead is the ambiance created by the juxtaposition of dark colors and neutrals. The combination of woods and metals. Hard and soft textures. I laugh at the simplicity of it all. I remember that I often overlooked these simple things when I "decorated" my house in the past. The colors also remind me of the barbershop in Andorra that I loved so much. It's good to see similar trends resurfacing...

When I return to the Bed and Breakfast, I know exactly what to do and book my train ticket to Tropea. I'll spend a couple days before heading north to Naples again. My accommodations fall into place, and voila! It is settled. Tropea was not accessible to me on the way down due to train schedules and weather. Now it is, and I am looking forward to it.

In the morning, around 8 am, the grandmother meats me in the kitchen with my breakfast. "Traditional Sicilian breakfast. Brioche and strawberry granita," she says. She heads out the door after I thank her and tell her how much I enjoyed my stay. The brioche is still warm when I tear a piece off. And the strawberry granita is spectacular. It might be my favorite flavor to date! This says a lot, as I am not a strawberry guy usually.