One of the most important Cathedrals in Sicily is Duomo di Céfalu. A UNESCO world heritage site, the Cathedral was commissioned in 1131 A.D. and is unique among other cathedrals due to its dual Norman towers and massive mosaics. Behind the Cathedral is Rocca di Céfalu (Rock of Céfalu). |
I begin the morning knowing I want to hike today. I quickly glance at my hiking app and notice I can hike up the Rocca di Céfalu. The climb starts about 0.5 km (0.31 mi) from my apartment. I grab my things, including my small bag, and head out. I soon find myself well above the Céfalu.
I find a small terrace, pause to sit, and enjoy the view. I notice how well I feel today as I admire the ocean to my right, the mountains to my left, and the sun on my face. I feel the tranquility of the moment. I sense how much I love being near the ocean. Today it's different than previous times I've felt this way. It isn't just about being near the sea. The presence of mountains to my left reminds me of how much I enjoyed the landscape of the Pacific Northwest of the United States. I frequently sat in similar places overlooking the ocean from high mountain positions when I lived there. I also remember I didn't enjoy the weather there. Here in Céfulu, it feels different. The air is warm, and there is lots of sunshine. Something here reminds me of how I felt in La Paz, Mexico, not so long ago. I know I could also stay here for a while. But there's something more that wants to surface.
So I let my reflections take me deeper. This feeling is one I also had on the Camino in the Asturias Region. Asturias Region of Spain is where I frequently found the mountains and ocean near each other. I've spent a lot of my travels walking and experiencing the coastlines of different countries. As I sit with this feeling, something surfaces. I have a desire to live near the ocean once again. I smile gently and acknowledge this desire. Then sit a while longer and enjoy this wonderful moment.
Wow! I underestimated how warm the sun would be today. When I left, it was cool. I am wearing my long pants instead of shorts. Fortunately, my pants have zippered vents on the sides. As I start climbing, it doesn't take me long to realize this will be a warmer experience than expected. On my way up, I pass a large group of World Wildlife Fund from the Sicily Chapter. The group of 30 or so people is gently descending the steep trail. I step aside and let them pass. I am surprised to see them here. I didn't know WWF existed in Sicily. Although I am loosely aware of WWF, it may be time to get more acquainted with them.
The trail climbs steeply this morning. I look above my head and see the ruins of Castelo de Céfalu.
The views from the top are incredible! On the north side of the rock, I find the Duomo di Céfalu below me.
On the east side, I find the marina and Torre Caldura (Caldura Tower) on the point (right in the picture below). Torre Caldura is one of the most important coastal watch towers near Céfalu. Unfortunately, the tower is deteriorating quickly and is now closed to the public.
I love experiencing what locals have access to. How are things bought and sold? What do they have to choose from? What are the quantities, varieties, and flavors that are available? For example, this little bakery has 11 different types of bread. At first glance, there appears to be a great deal of overlap in form and function between the kinds of bread. However, each is uniquely labeled, indicating different varieties with other purposes and tastes. I ask the lady behind the counter for one of the small loaves on the bottom shelf. It is perfect for the foundation of my sandwich. The bread in Europe is incredible doughy soft on the inside with a firm crust.
My hair is gross! 🤢 It’s an oily mess. I traveled 6 months here in Europe last fall and never had an issue. Even all the walking and swearing I did, my hair was never this oily. In the past I got by washing my hair once a week, usually whenever there was shampoo where I was staying. This allowed me to save weight. But this time, I can barely make two days. Is it me? Is there something in the air? I don’t know but before I do anything else, I need to buy shampoo. At least this way I can wash it daily and avoid this gross oily mess! 😅
Later, I spend time advancing my plans for the next few days. I am still deciding whether to take the ferry or train back to Naples. The issue for me is I know there are ferries from Milazzo to Naples. But their schedules elude me, despite a considerable time investment on my part via the Internet. So, I let it go and decided to table it until I arrive in the port own of Milazzo (mee lot-zo) tomorrow. I believe visiting the port town and gathering the information I need there would be better. As a backup, I also work through the train schedules. I spend time identifying potential cities to visit that I missed on the way down, should I go by rail.
My choices are 1) take the ferry and stay 3 nights in Milazzo, or 2) spend one night in Milazzo and return by rail via mainland Italy. The uncertainty keeps me from booking anything tonight except a single-night stay in Milazzo. I don't even book my train ticket to Milazzo. As I have no clarity on what time I want to leave or arrive in Milazzo. I am tired, and I can feel it. Instead, I decided to sleep on all of this. I'll decide when I wake up. I've learned that if my itinerary does not come together when I set time aside to figure it out, then the time is not right. Tabling decisions and trying again later usually works out better for me. Forcing decisions usually does not benefit me. In the end, I am reminded that it is good to be flexible!
While heading to dinner, I hear the sound of running water and wander off the main road toward the ocean. At the bottom of the staircase is a small fountain with a small channel leading out to the ocean through the rocks. The warm light of the setting sun catches my eye. I love how this photo turned out. It is like there is a warm fire deep inside the cold rock. It reminds me that we all have that fire inside us. We just need to be mindful of it to keep it from going out as the cold water rushes in.
A while later, I find my way to the ocean just as the sun is setting between these two rocks. It reminds me of two people sitting who are enjoying the sunset. Life is spectacular, but it's even better when I am able to share it with people I love! 😍
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