Céfalu (Sicily, Italy) | Another Side of Sicily - 24 May, 2023

 

The countryside in interior Sicily is stunning this time of year. However, most of the cities and villages are scattered around the perimeter of Sicily, so when it was time to leave Siracusa, I decided to see a different side of Sicily, the island's interior.

I have about a week left before my flight to Bordeaux, France, for my mindfulness retreat in early May. I decided to book a flight from Naples rather than leave Italy. After exploring options, I found it easier to leave from Naples. I could have flown to another country, but I quickly nixed that idea when I noticed it complicated my return to France. Now that I know I must return to Naples, I also booked some culinary classes for the days ahead. In the meantime, this added time allows me to explore more of Sicily and possibly Italy. I say maybe. I am considering riding a fairy boat from Milazzo, Sicily, to Naples. 

I choose to return to Catania and travel northwest toward Palermo instead of following the coast to the island's north end. This jaunt to Céfalu (Chay pha loo) will take me most of the day. So before leaving Siracusa, I stop at the market and grab a few things for lunch. I've grown fond of pickled caper berries and garlic. And it turns out that both are extremely good for my health too!

And aged peppered Pecorino cheese. This is the pecorino that is aged 15 months. It has a sharp flavor and dry texture like a Parmesan. It goes great with bread and fresh fennel I have in my bag. 

Around 1 pm, I board the bus in Catania to Dittaino Station, about 1 hour away. Traveling by train in Italy has been easy. The trains in Sicily are even more modern than on mainland Italy. The buses are really modern too. Trenitalia frequently contracts charter companies to supplement their train routes, like when I took to Sicily. This makes travel much easier for pedestrians and keeps local charters working. Tickets are booked directly through Trenitalia, a service I greatly appreciate.

At the train station, the little cafe is loaded with my favorite local savory treats. 😁 On the left are Arancini al Ragu, Cartocciata, Scacciata, and Cipollina. Unfortunately, I am not hungry, so I choose to simply take a picture of the tasty treats instead.

It's another 2.5 hours by train to Céfalu. The scenery is spectacular. The warm colors of spring add to the beauty I see. Everywhere I look, the landscape is green, and plants are blooming. It isn't just that spring is in the air, though. The landscape is noticeably different. Gone are the muted pastel colors, stone buildings, and flat terrain. Instead, this part of Sicily has a gentle softness everywhere I look. As I look across the rolling hills, I see the wind blowing across fields. Even though I am on a train racing through the landscape, I suddenly feel connected to nature.

One of the things that catches my attention while passing through this landscape is an unusual agricultural crop.

The Prickly Pear Cactus is an important agricultural crop that grows near the foothills of Mt. Etna. The plant was imported from South and Central America in the 15th Century. Today Prickly Pear Cactus is revered for its delicious sweet flesh. Unfortunately, I am ahead of the first bloom, which begins mid-May and lasts through June. So Prickly Pear is not on my itinerary this time. The second bloom harvest is from late September through November. The second bloom is preferred. The flesh is sweeter and has fewer seeds in the pulp. There are also three varieties. The Sulfarina, the most widespread and least sought after, has characteristic yellow-orange pulp and slightly floury consistency. The Muscaredda has white pulp and is sweeter and crunchier. Finally, the Sanguigna, distinguished by its red-violet pulp, is juicy and very sweet.

When I switch trains near Palermo, my quiet, relaxed train ride becomes much more chaotic. I board the train heading east and find it is standing room only. A first in my travels in Italy. Fortunately, my next leg is only 20 minutes. I set my bag down and enjoy the views of the ocean. I choose Céfalu as my next destination because I wanted to continue exploring smaller cities in Sicily. Palermo is a wonderful city, but it is much larger than Céfalu. Nearly 700,000 people live there, while Céfalu has a population of  14,000. Located on the north-central coast of Sicily, Céfalu is a great destination to experience the north side of the island. 

When I arrive in Céfalu by train, I can tell right away I am going to enjoy it. I can't wait to explore this little town in the next couple of days. I wonder what it has in store for me? Each town I visit is a new opportunity to discover new things. I've always loved diversity and have always known that I thrive in situations where I can have new experiences. Traveling not only opens this door, but it also allows any walls I had to fade away. There are no right or wrong choices. There are only things to be experienced.

One of those new experiences occurred here in Céfalu. I ordered the Marlin rolls. Marlin is a very popular fish in Sicily, and I frequently find it at local fish markets. However, it is not one of my favorite fish to eat. I find that its dense flesh can easily dry out when cooked, making it less enjoyable than a dry piece of chicken. Tonight, this is an exception. Wow, I choose well tonight! Marlin rolls, really more fish cakes, are a popular summer dish here in Sicily. The rolls are full of flavor, moist, and delicate. This reminds me that I don't have a go-to fish cake or fish roll recipe, yet. Tonight makes me want to experiment until I find one! 😋 I could eat this dish again. It is a nice change of pace from pasta and pizza.