Sorrento (Italy) | Amalfi Coast - 21 Apr, 2023

I passed this field of Bermuda Buttercups while hiking over the peninsula from Sorrento to the small town of Colli di Fontenelle on the Amalfi Coast. I enjoy seeing the contrast of colors on this beautiful day.

I decided that for me, the best way to experience the Amalfi Coast was to hike it. So, after exploring several trails that start near Sorrento, I decided on an out-and-back trail I found on my hiking app, AllTrails. The trail received glowing reviews and begins in the old town of Sorrento. 

I head out around 1030 am after grabbing a light breakfast and snacks. I wander through the old town on a warm, beautiful morning. I soon realize the trail will lead me up the stunning cliffs in the distance.

The trail is steep at times, but the views are stunning. In no time, I find myself way above the town of Sorrento. As I look east, I can see the village below me, Italian cliffs, and beautiful coastal mountains. I follow the trail up and continue climbing while I pass several small farms. Lemons, cherries, and olives are some of the crops grown in this region.

It feels great to be hiking this morning. The trail is primarily old paved roads. Others are newer roads that are used infrequently. The roads are so narrow and steep that I wonder how opposing cars navigate these streets. Then I hear a "Beep Beep" from a car I cannot see. As I approach a junction, the care appears. This must be how the locals navigate. They honk before entering the intersection. If there is no response, they proceed through the junction.

Cresting the top of the peninsula takes me longer than expected. Finally, around 2 pm, I can see the town of Torca below me to the south. I find a staircase to enjoy the view of Torca while I eat. Lunch consists of bread, salami, smoked mozzarella, and raw fennel. I enjoy having something fresh and crunchy with my traditional lunch items (e.g., cheese, meat, and bread).

I am enjoying the day tremendously. It feels good to get away from Sorrento's crowds and experience the countryside's tranquility. As I sit enjoying the view, I notice I have no interest in returning the way I came. I check my hiking app. There appears to be a trail well below the town of Torca near the ocean. The trail leads to the small village of Colli del Fontanelle. What if the trial is not possible or it is blocked? How long will it take? A quick check reveals a bus that travels from Torca back to Sorrento. I can always take it if it doesn't pan out. What the heck? Let's go!

On my down to the trail, I pass this 1964 Fiat 350. The van reminds me of an early 60s Volkswagen van. This one, however, is much cooler, and I am digging the form. Unfortunately, it's now a relic and landmark. It hasn't moved in a long time.

When I arrive at the bottom near the coast, I notice a small narrow trail that heads east. That's the trail I am looking for. It is slightly overgrown and follows a garden. "Bonjorno! Es Bene?" As I point to the trail, I ask the older Italian man, in a mix of Italian and Spanish. I hear "Si." Then he proceeds to speak at length about what I will encounter. I nod and listen to cues that I can recognize. Near as I can tell, it will take me about 1.5 hours to reach Coli di Fontanelle. After that, the trail will descend drastically before climbing again near the little village.

The view along the Amalfi Coast is fantastic! What better way to experience this part of Italy than to hike it?

The view west is stunning. But, unfortunately, the only way the photo turns out is in black and white. 

As I hike the narrow trail on the coast, I can see tour boats passing below. Most of them are shuttling tourists from Sorrento around the western cape to the southern side of the Amalfi Coast. 

I love the hike. The climb out is steep. I finally arrived at the village of Colli di Fontanelle around 6 pm. A fantastic day! After spending the next hour trying to flag down two buses, I finally decided to look for a bus headed in the other direction. For a few euros, the bus takes me back to Sorrento by arriving from the east instead of the west. The weather was outstanding today! Hiking is a great way to spend the day when traveling. Hiking in foreign countries fills my bucket and checks my boxes with things that are important to me. These are things that are often hard to find in urban centers. I need to do more of this while I am here.

The following day, the weather is not so lovely. Rain is in the forecast today. I climb on a large bus and find myself in a standing-room-only situation. This happens to me frequently on buses. 😂When we arrive at the next bus stop, the bus driver doesn't stop. I see two women run after the bus. He makes a circular motion with his hands and continues. The women continue running, uncertain why the bus isn't stopping. Finally, traffic stops us. The driver utters something in Italian while making the same circular motion. He's trying to tell them he's full. This is what must have happened to me last night. However, I didn't waste my time running after the buses.

Thirty minutes later, the bus driver dropped me off near the top of Positano, Italy. Wow! It's a long way down from here! I understand why boat tours are so popular.

Unfortunately, the weather sucks today. By the time I wander halfway down to the beach, it starts to rain. Fortunately, I find a restaurant with an amazing view to wait out the storm. I order a shrimp pasta dish. The zucchini flowers, tomatoes, pasta, and sauce are great! Unfortunately, the shrimp is overcooked, but I don't mind as I am dry and warm. The rain falls hard and fast for the next hour and a half. Finally, it lets up, and I head out.

This is a beautiful part of Italy.

I wander the streets and shops as I traverse the town. Finally, I climb back up to the main road along the eastern side. The rain soon returns, and I hop on the next bus. Positano is a cool little town, and I am grateful I took the opportunity to visit it, even though the weather could have been better.

Hiking the Amalfi Coast was a great way to experience this part of Italy, and it has inspired me. I want to move inland and explore the interior mountains of Southern Italy. What will it bring me?