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| The view of the old town from my Bed and Breakfast balcony in Crotone, Italy, is wonderful. I've been fortunate to secure many rooms with balconies in Italy. I really enjoy having this luxury. |
My day starts early as I gather my things and meet Simonetta at 6 am. We climb into her car. It is a 1.5-hour drive to Crotone. Simonetta started filling in for Eduardo to guide tours from Crotone to Sila a few years ago. Simonetta's English is fantastic, and tourists from Viking Cruise Ships love having her as a tour guide.
I can understand why people love having her as a guide. "Those are Giant Fennel. They are toxic. In ancient times people stored important papers inside the hollow stalks to protect them from rodents," she says as I point to the tall plants with yellow buds on the hillsides.
The drive goes quickly, and the conversation is not lacking. Once Simonetta learned I was a wildlife biologist, we chatted about wolves and the reintroduction of brown bears in Italy. I'm really fortunate to have met Simonetta and Eduardo. It's these kinds of relationships that make travel fun.
Around 730 am, we arrive at the port in Crotone. "Looks like that's my ship that is arriving." You must have done this a time or two. Your timing is perfect! I laugh. I grab my bag and thank Simonetta for the warm hospitality and lift to Crotone. "Send us a postcard. Let us know where you are," says Simonetta. Below is the Viking Cruise Ship arriving at the harbor.
Unfortunately, my stay in Crotone didn't go so well. I had a great morning. Before lunch, I headed to a local market. I purchased some beautiful large strawberries and ate a few before realizing I should have washed them. That was a bad move. More on that later.
Crotone is known for its seafood and a local cheese Pecorino Crotonese. Each region of Italy produces its own variation of Pecorino cheese. The one in Crotone is made from sheep's milk and is well known for being aged in wicker baskets. I am looking forward to trying it.
For lunch, I order the cuddlefish with arugula. Arugula is translated locally to "Rocket Salad." You won't find arugula on any menus. It took me a while to figure this one out. Cuddlefish reminds me of calamari both in flavor and texture. I can see why it is popular in Italy. Unfortunately, like calamari and octopus, it becomes a bit chewy if it is overcooked. This one looked pretty when it arrived. However, after a few bites in, I realized it was overcooked. It saddens me when restaurants overcook food.
Traveling in southern Italy is lovely! There are so many great sites to see! It is definitely less known compared to Northern Italy. However, this part of the country is excellent for understanding Italian culture. The people here are extremely friendly and always willing to help. English works very well here, though only some people speak it. Like many other places I've traveled, Italians in this part of the country have warm hearts. When I try to speak Italian, they find a way to bridge the language gaps with me quickly. Italians build bridges because they want to help. They meet me along the way to get me what I am looking for.
Similarly, trains are a great and inexpensive way to move around Italy. Most of my tickets have been purchased for under 20 Euros ($22 USD), and many are under 10 Euros. Italy has modern trains, including high-speed, normal, and hybrid ones. Except for one occasion, the trains have been relatively empty. This is a sharp contrast to trains in France which are almost always full and pricey. Tickets can be purchased via
TrenItalia or at all stops and stations. Paper tickets must be validated by inserting them into a little machine that crimps the ticket after making the purchase. E-tickets do not need to be validated.
The coastline in Crotone offers me two uncommon features. First, behind the coastline are hills that run out to the peninsula. Usually, I see large mountains or no hills at all. I love the green behind the city and find it contrasts the view.
Second, the Italians have creatively increased the beach's linear meters (feet). They created 10 bays by placing rock riprap along the shoreline. Between each bay is a narrow inlet that still allows ocean water to flood the bay. This results in sizeable semi-circular swimming areas largely protected from large ocean waves. An ingenious idea to increase access to the popular shoreline.
When the late afternoon rolls around, I am starting to feel bloated. I'm sure the chocolate gelato (i.e., dairy) didn't help my situation. My condition deteriorates quickly. I skip dinner and realize I will be in for a long night. Sure enough! By the time I turn in, my stomach feels full wrath from Neptune's anger. A few hours later, I am hugging the porcelain god and praying for the world to end. 😂 The torment continues through the night. I hardly sleep a wink with my constant forays to the bathroom. This is one of the worst cases of food poisoning I've ever had.
When the morning rolls around, I feel like I was drug through a knothole backward last night. It's been years since I was this bad off. I had fluids coming out of every orifice imaginable. 😂 My first order of business, I need to rehydrate. Then ingest bananas, apples, and toast. Although I am feeling slightly better, I am tired and sore. I have a long way to go before I can eat well again.
Crotone has a beautiful large castle, Castello di Carlo V, near the town center. Unfortunately, it was closed. From the outside, it looks like it is undergoing major renovations. Perhaps this is why it is closed.
However, while walking the perimeter of the Castello. Céline, from the Camino, reaches out and informs me that Plum Village has an opening for May 5th. I still keep in touch with several people I met on the Camino. She recently inquired about my quest to find a retreat. I shared with her it was difficult, and I was still looking for an opportunity. So when she shared the news, I quickly navigated to the
Plum Village website from my phone. This was always my preferred retreat. I have read some of Thich Nhat Hahn's books and am excited about the prospects of attending Plum Village. Once on the website, I am shocked to see that there is a single opening. I wonder if someone canceled? They had no openings just a few days ago. It matters not. I waste no time and book the retreat.
I now know what I'll do in a few weeks after Italy. I am returning to Bordeaux, France! When I tell Céline I secured the spot, she is excited. What luck! On the Camino, I frequently told people the Camino always provides. Just like that, Life (i.e., the Camino) provided me with an experience I've been seeking for >6 months.😁
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