Catania (Sicily, Italy) | Wonder Bar - 28 Apr, 2023

The sunset in Scilla, Italy, is among the firsts I've seen since arriving. Unfortunately, the weather has been colder and windier than expected. Or so I have been told. Nevertheless, the warm glow of the sun setting behind the small fishing village is a welcomed site. 

Honestly, I feel like shit. The food poisoning flat-out kicked my ass. And although everything stays in place, my stomach is still unhappy. I'm surviving on Powerade, bread, and bananas. I have a long train ride today. All I can hope for is that whatever I had is completely gone. The last thing I want is to "Need to go" on the train. 😖😂

This brings me to another observation I want to share, public toilets in Italy. Wow! Italy may have the cleanest public toilets I've ever experienced. Every train station has a person dressed in a DayGlo yellow jumpsuit. Their purpose is to keep the bathrooms clean. And they do a damn fine job! Even though the bathrooms are clean, there's only one thing worse than using a bathroom on a train. That is using one on an airplane. Fortunately, the bananas are helping, and if things go my way, I can avoid this train experience today. 😁

Train strikes are common in the UK and France, and until today, I had no issues in Italy. When I arrived at the station, the itinerary board showed my train leaving Crotone was 5 minutes late. Then it was 15 minutes and then eventually 30 minutes. On the loudspeaker, I hear the voice that says the strike could disrupt train schedules today. I look at the itinerary board and think, I bet they cancel this train, as I notice there's another one in 30 minutes (initially an hour apart). 

My rescheduled train is a relic of times long passed. It is a single-cabin train that is built like a Lego block. A rectangular box with flat ends. It seats only 40 people. The train is nearly full by the time we depart. I realized this would be a slow ride as we leave the station. I envision that a single Lego block can only move at low speeds. I know I have already missed my connection in Catanzaro. So I decided to sit back and enjoy the ride. Fortunately, it doesn't take long before I doze off. I find it easy to doze off when my destination is the final stop for the train.

It is around 6 pm when I finally reach the small fishing village of Scilla. The village looks interesting, and I slightly desire to explore it. Scilla is scenic and has excellent seafood. However, the wind is howling, and I don't feel great. It is going to be an early night, I can tell. I had other things in mind when I made my reservation in Scilla. Nevertheless, it is who I am now, so an early night it is.

I chose Scilla as my final destination for the day as it is only a 10-minute train ride to Villa San Giovanni, where I need to take the ferry to get to Messina, Sicily. I would rather stay in a small village or town than a larger city like Villa San Giovanni. I enjoy visiting towns and villages much more than larger cities. I enjoy escaping the chaos and cacophony of noises that frequently accompany larger cities. Sometimes I miss it, though. In those cases, I can easily scratch that itch as it is easy to find large cities.

My bed and breakfast in Scilla is located around the backside of the head, with Castello Ruffo perched atop. 

I love the old narrow streets, and Scilla is not lacking any. Vehicular traffic is light in Scilla, and I enjoy a short walk before sunset.

The port, located on the north side of Scilla near the old town, is tiny. It includes primarily small fishing boats. I laugh as I pass this group of boats. The ship closest in the picture is called "Rambo." Those must be some rough seas to navigate!

While waiting in Messina for my train connection to Catania, Sicily, I took this photograph of local Polizia (i.e., police). At first, I question what I am seeing. Really? Officers ride around on e-scooters in Messina? Then I think, why not? Police officers use motorcycles, bikes, and horses in cities across the globe. Why not use e-scooters? It's a brilliant idea!

This part of Italy has many volcanos, Mt. Vesuvius (near Pompeii), Stromboli (isle of Stromboli), and Mt. Etna (northwest of Catania, Sicily). Mt. Etna is the world's most active volcano and is in a constant state of activity. As I pass by on the train, I can see the clouds and snow on Mt. Etna. They send shivers down my spine. I realize I am not equipped for an excursion up the mountain at 3,357 m (11,014 ft). This was one of the things I was considering experiencing while in Catania. Then I remember that even at sea level, with the combination of wind and rain, I have been pushing the envelope of my gear and ability to stay warm. It would be foolish to press on in these conditions. So I decided to spend my Euros on a different experience instead.

I arrive in Catania in the middle of the afternoon. The rain starts right away. As I wander around town, I try to find shelter when the rain begins. Catania has an excellent feel, and I can't wait to really explore this city when it is not raining. 

Although Catania is the largest city in Sicily, it feels much smaller. I am finally starting to turn the corner. My energy is returning, but my gut is still a bit unsettled. I am constantly belching this afternoon. I have to turn things around. I want to experience Sicilian street food and other treats. This will be my third night since my blowout in Crotone. I hope things get better from here.

I do a quick Google search. Pepto Bismol is not readily available here. So, I type, what liquors can settle stomachs? Turns out that Italian Amaro liquors are great for upset stomachs. I just happen to be in Italy! What luck! So, I find a small bar and order a glass of Fernet-Branca. It's an herbal liquor made in Milano, Italy. It is derived from 27 different herbs and has a very unique flavor. Although it is unique, the taste grows on me. I drink it chilled and neat. I notice the owner-bartender has a turntable behind the bar. It doesn't take long before he puts on a vinyl disc. No way! It's Stevie Wonder. It's been years since I've listened to vinyl. Watching the slightly warped disc spin, I realize the sound is much richer and deeper than CDs or streaming. I can see why people love vinyl. The sound isn't as crisp, but it is wonderful to listen to.

By the time I reach the bottom of the glass, the constant belching appears to have stopped. I need to keep a bottle of this on hand in the future. Maybe it's the Amaro liquor, but I am really digging Stevie Wonder tonight. The bartender is playing the Hotter Than July album from 1980. I don't recognize a single song. However, I am digging the groove and the passion he sings with. 

I settle my bill and wander back. I still don't feel like eating, but I wouldn't mind another Amaro. I find another tiny bar near my place. It catches my attention. This one has a steampunk vibe with Edison lights hanging from the ceiling. The site is empty. Just a few people sit outside. Nevertheless, it has a very relaxing atmosphere. I love the amber glow and contrast of wood and steel. 

I order another Amaro, but I don't catch the name this time. It is not Fernet. It tastes good and reminds me of a gentler version of Jägermeister. Notably, Jäger is a German type of Amaro. Stevie Wonder starts to play on the radio in the bar as I sit, enjoying the Amaro. What are the chances of hearing him at two different bars on the same night in Italy? After finishing the Amaro, I head back to my Airbnb. I notice my stomach feels better. More importantly, I have developed a liking for Stevie Wonder. Hopefully, the Amaro will carry me into tomorrow. In the meantime, I add a couple of Stevie's songs to my travel playlist. I can't wait until I can eat again.😋