Camigliatello Silano (Italy) | A Walk in the Countryside - 25 Apr, 2023

Lago Ariamacina (Ariamacina Lake) provided me with beautiful and relaxing scenery during my hike along Trail 412. This tranquil spot was perfect for a rest.

After a light breakfast (i.e., pastry and tea), Eduardo shows me a map. "I can drop you off here, near this lake. There is no snow. Hike down to the lake. Follow Trail 412. Then take the old highway to this town and visit Giganti della Sila. The hike is 12 km (8 mi)," says Eduardo as he shows me the route on the map. That is perfect! Exactly what I was looking for! I tell him. 

I grab my small pack and stuff in my jacket, lunch, and water. I still use the same multi-colored Cotopaxi pack that served me well on the Camino. I load up in Eduardo's car, and about 30 minutes later, we arrive at this intersection. "Hike down this trail to the lake. You return on this one," says Eduardo, pointing to the two trails. That's Eduardo returning to his car. A few minutes later, he's gone, and the pine forest awaits.

And just like that, I find myself in the Italian mountains filled with Pine Trees. I'm happy to see the sun this morning. It was overcast and foggy at Simonetta and Eduardo's cabin this morning. I wasn't sure I would see the sun, but I am now on the eastern side of the mountains. This is a fantastic surprise! Unfortunately, I forgot my sunblock, so I will surely get a sunburn. The sky is blue, but it is cool and breezy. I take out my jacket and start hiking.

I love learning about the local outdoors while I travel. This tiny postage stamp of trees is hardly a forest in North America. Nevertheless, here it is a big deal! Walking the trail reminds me of the Ponderosa Pine Trees of the Black Hills in western South Dakota, United States. The forest has little vertical structure, but I enjoy being here nonetheless. Spring is in the air, and birds sing their hearts out, looking for mates and defending their territories.

As I wander through the small stand, I notice signs of feral pigs. They are common in this part of Italy. Even though I don't see any pigs, the ground has been rutted up (i.e., turned over) in several places. I suspect the pigs are looking for and feeding on truffles. Italy is rich in truffles. Truffles are subterranean mushrooms that grow approximately 5-30 cm (2-12 in) below the surface near tree roots. Finally, I catch a glimpse of an unusual critter, at least for me. It's a squirrel, but it is nearly all black. I later learned it was a Calabrian Black Squirrel.

Even the spring flowers, like this Spring Crocus, remind me warmer weather is coming.

I have no idea how long it takes me to hike down to the lake and back. I have no schedule today. When I am done, I'll call Eduardo, and he'll pick me up. It feels great to pause and relax near the lake. The sun is warm, and the breeze disappeared. When I reach the top, near the intersection, it's time for lunch. It consists of a sandwich with Njuda, olives, and cheese. Njuda is a spicy spreadable sausage made in the Calabria (i.e., this) Region. It is surprisingly spicy but full of flavor! 

The afternoon takes me down an old abandoned highway. It's 7 km (4.3 mi) to the next village and the Giganti della Silla. I absolutely love these types of outings. It reminds me of my walk along the Camino, where I passed through rural and less affluent parts of Spain. Today's hike is re-igniting that desire to do something similar again. This time I want to restrict it to 1-2 weeks and am not interested in spending another 42 days walking. Nonetheless, my desire to walk through unfamiliar countries and landscapes is burning bright today. It is such a fantastic way to experience a country or Region. 

As I pass this old railroad bridge, I remember Eduardo telling me that this is a train that runs infrequently and is mainly used as a touring facility now. It is used to shuttle tourists to and fro in the summer.  

Around 3 pm, I arrive in the tiny village of Croce di Magara. The village is located on the edge of the Parco Nazionale dell Silla (Silla National Park). The Giganti della Silla is about 2 km south of here. This village looks abandoned. Yet, at the same time, it appears that the town was quite popular at one time. There are hotels and guest houses everywhere. All the grocery stores and restaurants are also boarded up. Below is one of the hotel restaurants that I passed.

Eduardo later tells me that before the 1950s, no one lived in this town year-round. The winters here were too harsh, and there was too much snow. Much of what I saw boarded up will be occupied again this summer during the Italian travel season. It is mostly locals that visit Croce di Magara. They frequent the town to escape the summer heat waves.

When I reach the Giganti della Silla, it is closed. All the trees are behind a high perimeter fence. This is a plantation of Calabrian Pines and Sycamore Maples. The woodland was created in the 17th century by the Mollo family, who owned the property. Today it is a protected reserve that is managed passively. The largest trees are 45 m (150 ft) tall and have a diameter of 2 m (6 feet). Impressive trees for Italy!

Walking past the enclosure, I find a scenic place to lounge and enjoy the sunshine before returning to Croce di Magara. When Eduardo picked me up, he was disappointed to learn that the preserve was closed when I arrived. However, it matters not to me. I enjoyed the day tremendously.

When I return to the cabin, Simonetta wants to know how the hike was. Fantastic, I really enjoyed it. Thank you both for such a lovely stay, I say. She says, "I need to go to Crotone in the morning. Not sure what your plans are, but if you want a ride, I can drop you off in town. The catch is I need to leave here by 6 am." Thank you, let me look at a few things, and I'll get back to you, I say.

I spend the next while looking into and making plans for the coming days. By relocating to Crotone, on the eastern coast, I can catch a train and continue my push south into Sicily rather than returning the way I came. Done! This is a no-brainer. Crotone will be a good destination and is known for great local seafood. At dinner, I tell Simonetta I appreciate the ride to Crotone and will join her in the morning.

I spend the evening looking at meditation retreats again. I'm systematically looking at all countries in Europe. I checked the mindfulness retreat I am interested in at Plum Village near Bordeaux. No dice. Still no space. After checking countless Vipassana retreats, I find two that show promise. Registration periods for the two retreats open on April 28th and 30th. One is in Germany, and the other is in the Netherlands. Unfortunately, both are in July. This means I would need to leave the Schengen Visa Area for another 2 -3 weeks again before participating. My 90 days will expire in late June. Nevertheless, this is good news. 

Finding open meditation retreats has been difficult for me. If I don't sign up on or near the day registration opens, I cannot get in. This time I have 2+ weeks before registration opens. It has been rare for me to find retreats that have registration and participation dates that fall into my schedule. This might work out!

I noticed I had company when I woke from a brief nap near the Giganti della Silla. This local stray dog, which I passed on the main road to the Giganti della Sila, found his way to me. Looks like I wasn't the only one who thought this was an excellent spot for a nap.