Camigliatello Silano (Italy) | Rifugio Casello Margherita - 22 Apr, 2023

I love these red lamps I encounter in Salerno, Italy. The lights remind me of spring tulips and give this green space a unique feel.

It's Easter Sunday. I overlooked what this meant in Italy when I booked my stay in Sorrento. I also didn't realize that Monday is "Little Easter." Little Easter is also a Holiday in Italy. In fact, nearly everything is closed, except the trains that day. Fortunately, I found an open grocery store to purchase some food. I only occasionally cook when I travel. Instead, I prefer to experience local cuisine. However, this time, necessity requires that I do.

I'm wavering between pushing further south along the coast and heading east into the mountains. In my travels, I've learned that if there is considerable inertia I need to overcome to make a destination viable, then I am best going in a different direction. For example, when accommodations are limited or difficult to book, and transportation is complicated. This happened while I was in Toulouse, France. These are omens that I need to listen to.

Staying on the coast is not aligning with me at the moment. There's an inflection point I cannot overcome to make a push further south along the beach at this time. Perhaps it is due to the Holiday or a desire to be in the mountains. So I change gears and yield to the moment.

So, I decided to relocate to Salerno, Italy, and stop for a night. Salerno is a hub destination, meaning many routes are available to me from that location. However, getting there from Sorrento is more complicated than I expected. I have two options, 1) return to Naples and then connect to Salerno, or 2) disembark the train in Pompeii and walk 30 minutes to another train station to connect to Salerno. I decided that option 2 would be best. I prefer not to double back whenever possible.

Salerno is located just south of the Amalfi Coast and is a destination that is a bit quieter for people looking to explore the coast. Although it is pretty cold due to the wind today, the views are pleasant.

While looking for a grocery store, I stumble into the courtyard of Saint Benedetto Chruch. There isn't much information on this church. I noticed that many of the columns have been replaced over time. Some are marble. Others are granite. It's hard to find two that are the same. The architecture is quite lovely here. Also, I am quite comfortable being here. Surprisingly I don't see many people even though it is Easter. 

I continue to work through my next destination. After listening to the omens, I decide to head inland while continuing my push down to Sicily. Initially, I am drawn to the little village of San Giovanni in Fiore. It offers many things but is too far from the Giganti della Sila. Giganti della Silva is a nature preserve of sorts with enormous Calabrian Pines and Sycamore Maples. I feel I need to experience this area. I'm curious. How huge do trees grow in Italy? 

The Rifugio Casello Margherita, a small rustic bed and breakfast in the mountains near Camigliatello Silano, calls to me. The reviews are outstanding, and it is near the Giganti della Sila. Unfortunately, it's 10 km from the village. However, Simonetta, one of the hosts, offers a ride once I arrive in the town. I can't wait to take advantage of the mountains and hike for a few days. 

I need to connect through Cosenza, Italy, on Little Easter to get there. I decided it best to stay in Consenza for the night, as I won't be able to catch the last bus to Camigliatello Silano. Consenza is located in Calabria Region. This is now my 3rd region in southern Italy. Rome is in Lazio, and Sorrento is in the Campania region.  

From the train, I notice there is snow in the mountains from the recent rain. Did I make the wrong call by heading up into the mountains? 

Cosenza is frequently overlooked as a destination. I can understand why. My apartment is in the newer city center, away from the quaint old city. But there isn't much that resonates here with me today. It could be the rain. It could be that the town is deserted due to the Holiday. I feel like in I'm in a strange dystopian post-covid future today. When I arrived, everything was closed. Only the litter wanders the streets with the occasional local and me. The rain falls quietly and gently as I walk about.

This sculpture catches my attention. I love how the books appear to resemble birds taking flight. It reminds me how much fun it is to read for pleasure.

How I feel about Cosenza improves slightly in the morning. The sun returns, the rain is gone, shops are open, and people move about freely. Perhaps, I could have stayed another night. But the bus takes me an hour east of Consenza to the little village of Camigliatello Silano. It takes only a short time before the windy road leads me into another landscape. It feels great to be among the pines in Italy. 

The little village reminds me of other older mountain towns I have visited.

Camigliatello Silano is mostly a quiet ski town in the winter. Simonetta tells me that it wasn't that long ago that people didn't live year-round in Camigliatello Silano. We chat on the way back. She and Eduardo spent 5 years renovating the abandoned highway camp cabin. Their dream was to run a bed and breakfast as Eduardo has always been connected in the ecotour community.

The view from Simonetta and Eduardo's place, Rifugio Casello Margherita, is wonderful. I feel great being here. It feels like I am alone in the woods. Just what I needed. The weather is perfect and much warmer than I expected. "You can go hike behind the house. It is flat. Or take trail up mountain. Very steep," says Eduardo, who speaks limited English. Simonetta is there to help translate. Simonetta was born in Italy but spent many years in Ontario, Canada, when she was younger with her folks. She speaks great English. It's awesome to find a fellow Canadian in Italy. I tell my hosts that I would like to hike up the mountain.

The trail starts in a mixed hardwood stand just below the bed and breakfast. This is a fantastic way to spend the afternoon. As I hike up the trail, I notice plants that I am familiar with. For others, I use my Seek app. I remember Erin on the Camino showed me this app. It works great! It uses my location and camera to identify plants and animals. There are plants like Wild Garlic and trees such as Balsam Fir and Brich.

It doesn't take long to find the snow. Soon after passing this spot, I find myself in several inches (centimeters) of snow. I know my shows will dry quickly, so I press on. As I posthole my way through the snow, all I can do is laugh and enjoy the great views through the trees.

Eventually, I find my way back to the road and wind my way back down to the cottage. It takes me a few hours. By the time I reach the cottage and rejoin Simonetta and Eduardo, I am chilled. "How was the hike?" asks Eduardo? Perfecto! I say. Tomorrow, I would like something longer without snow, though. "I know where to take you. We can discuss it in the morning. Dinner will be ready soon," he says. 

Dinner was incredible! Simonetta outdid herself by preparing a two-course meal with several appetizers. I left my camera upstairs, so I have no photos. The meal was traditional Italian and included onion fritters, semi-dried romano cheese, baked local olives, pasta, salad, and pork with fried potatoes. It was incredible! I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.