Sarandë (Albania) | The Blue Eye - Day 156

The Ali Pasha Aqueduct, located 30 km (18.5 mi) north of Gjirokastër, is one of the best remaining aqueducts in the area from the Ottoman Empire. The massive arch on the bottom spans a river that is approximately 60 m (200 ft) below the arch. The aqueduct was then built on top of the massive span.

The forecast is calling for rain today, but before I head out with Jerome, I suggest we head north to visit one of the aqueducts that Ali Pasha had built during the time of the Ottoman Empire. "It would be better to burn the gas we have than to return the car with more gas than when we got it," says Jerome. So, we take 30 minutes to drive north. 

Once we head west into the canyon, it doesn't take long before we arrive at the site. Looks like the rain is going to hold off. I am glad we made the drive up, I tell Jerome. "Me too. It is amazing to be the only ones here," he says.

Ali Pasha was a ruthless ruler and benefited from a troubled Ottoman Empire because of conflicts with Napolean Bonaparte to carve out a piece of the empire for himself in Albania. During his rule, he commissioned many projects, including several aqueducts, of which only a few remain. Nevertheless, during his reign, Albania prospered due to trade and his investment in infrastructure. 

The narrow channel once conveyed water across the canyon near Bënçe, Albania. 

The Ali Pasha aqueduct was damaged in the 1930s due to an earthquake and was reconstructed with less detail. For example, part of the water channel is now made of concrete. The original aqueduct is visible on the right where the arches are. To the left, the columns are square pillars lacking archway details.

I follow Jerome down the narrow bridge when he stops just as we get to the large arch. "Oh shit! I didn't realize the river was so far down," Jerome says. As I reach the same place, I stop and look down. Damn, that is a long way down! I say. The rebuilt section of the aqueduct contrasts sharply with the beautiful original arches. Despite the mismatched pieces, the aqueduct remains a fantastic site to see.

We make our way back up to the car, head south towards Gjirokastër, and then west over the mountains towards Sarandë, Albania. We plan to stop at another site, halfway across the mountains, about 45 minutes southwest of Gjirokastër. The iconic Blue Eye of Albania. 

This is a great time to visit Albania. The more of this country I see, the more I love it, I say to Jerome. "I know. Albania has been a wonderful surprise. Plus, I really enjoy it when we are the only ones at a site," he says. The walk to the Blue Eye is approximately 1 km (0.6 mi) each way from the parking area. It feels great to still be able to walk and not be dependent solely on the car. Though, I must admit that I am seeing sites that I would not be able to see if I relied exclusively on the Albanian bus system.

The sun is at a terrible angle for taking pictures of the Blue Eye from the observation. The Blue Eye is a natural spring that emerges from a Karst at least 50 m (180 ft) deep though the actual depth is unknown. The bubbling water creates a beautiful stream.

The overcast skies result in flat light today, which makes taking pictures difficult. Finally, with the sun behind me, I can take photos of the Blue Eye and the beautiful colors. The water is crystal clear.

The pool where the water originates is a rich blue-turquoise color. The water is extremely clear. From the observation deck, I can see all the way down to the bottom of the hole. 

After reading the sign, I stop at the visitor's entrance to buy a couple of postcards. "Love is Free. You can sit here. Write a letter and send it to someone you love."

I arrive in Sarandë (Saranda) around 330 pm with Jerome. With the clouds, it is already getting dark. So, I tell Jerome, let's go walk on the boardwalk. Let's see if the city looks any better from there. "This city is ugly. It's all concrete square buildings. But there has to be something redeeming," he says.

Sarandë has a strong Greek influence. The Greek Island of Corfu is located just west of the city. However, Sarandë is the first city in Albania that doesn't resonate with me. The architecture lacks that Albanian aesthetic that I've noticed in other cities. I tell Jerome, I wonder if it is the Greek influence since Corfu is so close? "I don't think so. The parts of Greece I have seen are pretty even though they use concrete too," he replies.

While on the boardwalk, I notice that many restaurants are closed for the season. They have put away all their patio furniture and sunshades. It makes sense because it is, after all, mid-November. It feels a bit strange to be in a large city (population of 42,000 people) and to be the only ones out this evening.

The storm clouds are stunning, looking back towards the west.

I tell Jerome although the city lacks charisma, I am taking lovely photos. Friends and family will think the city is very appealing because the photos are nice. I am going to take one of the "ugly" concrete apartment and hotel buildings, I tell him. The buildings are painted in dull pastel colors, giving the city a strange and dated vibe. Despite this, I notice that similar-styled hotel and apartment buildings are being constructed everywhere in Sarandë. I tell Jerome, you might not like the architecture, but they are not building anything different. Look around. It might be their style. "I know the city is trendy in the summer with Albanians that live in Tirana. But I don't understand why. The beach has no sand. It is made of small gravel," says Jerome. 

The only other person out this evening is this Albanian walking the beach with his dog. It is strange to see a dog with its master. I haven't seen many dogs with masters in other place and I have not seen many stray dogs in Sarandë.

Later I reflect on my reaction to this city. Most cities have dull parts and lack charisma, but Sarandë is the first I have been to where the entire town is like this. Usually, I can find something unique about a city. In Sarandë, its lack of charm seems to be what makes it unique. Additionally, there are two things that I noticed about the city. First, it is built on a hill. So when I was standing on the boardwalk, I was surrounded by dull pastel concrete buildings. I remember feeling like I was in an amphitheater. Second, the structures extend right up to the water's edge. The beach is maybe 20 m (60 ft) at its deepest point. Then there is a boardwalk, perhaps 6 m (20 ft). That is all that separates the buildings from the ocean. I also think the grey skies didn't help the city any today. Maybe it will be better in the morning?