Prishtinë (Kosovo) | A Day at the Library - Day 168

I was intrigued by the National Library in Prishtinë when I arrived a few days ago. Accordingly, I opt to make it my first visit today. I want to see the interior and the building close up.

Before heading out this morning, I check the news for an update on the tense situation near the border involving Serbian license plates. Good deal! It appears that cooler heads prevailed, and a solution has been found. Kosovo has agreed to implement a strategy nearly identical to what the European Union proposed a few months ago. The United States was heavily involved in diplomacy, which undoubtedly helped sway Kosovo. I share the news with Jerome.

The Library is an interesting structure intended to marry the Byzantine and Ottoman styles with a modern twist. It was designed by a Croatian Architect and constructed in 1982. The exterior bottom of the building is stone, while everything encased in the metal lattice is concrete. I did not notice at first, which is one reason I wanted to view the building up close.

The metal lattice is constructed of hexagonal and rhomboid shapes. I notice that each part of the lattice is held together with nuts and bolts. This must have been a monumental undertaking to connect all these shapes. I assume it was done by hand.

The interior floor of the entryway is made of marble mosaic. The main entrance is visible in the bottom frame of the picture in the background. 

The building has 99 domes that function as giant sunlight for the interior of the building. The largest ones are located in the main entryway. The domes are not without controversy. They were designed to resemble traditional Albanian hats, Quelesh or Plis. This design element was not well received by the Serbs, as Kosovo was a state within Serbia when the Library was constructed.

The two walls that form the main entryway are finished in beautiful mosaic patterns made of multicolored stone.

I decide to wander through the Library to experience how it feels. A tiny spiral staircase leads up or down from the first floor. I walk up the stairs and find a labyrinth of closed wooden doors that resembles something I would expect circa the 1950s from the Communist Are. They lack charm. The marble mosaic quickly gives way to concrete floors.

The experience is an odd one, for sure. I can't seem to locate a single book anywhere. The halls and doors are void of markings or signs, and all the doors are closed. I don't see a single person or hear any conversations. I feel like I'm in a strange bunker from the 1950s. I later learn that this Library holds all the essential documents dating back to the 13th century, including religious texts. Consequently, the stacks are off-limits to the public.

When I step out of the Library, I take this skyline photo. Prishtinë is a city in transition, and although there are many new high-rise buildings under construction, the city feels less modern than Tirana.

On my way to the small ethnographic museum in town, I pass a block with three old mosques. The first is the Bazaar Mosque and the oldest building in Tirana. The foundation was laid in 1389 and completed in the 15th century. As I walk by, I notice it is again under restoration, though the minaret has survived for > 600 years. 

The Imperial Mosque (a.k.a. King's Mosque) catches my eye and is much larger than the other two. As I turn the corner, I notice the exterior domes are beautifully decorated. I have not seen this before in other Mosques.

At the end of the 17th century, the Mosque became a Catholic Church. It is not uncommon for Churches to become Mosques and vice versa as places are conquered. If the site was good enough for one religion, why wouldn't it be a good place for another? As a result of its diverse history, it was declared a Monument of Culture of Exceptional Importance by the Republic of Serbia.

Near the Imperial Mosque is the small Ethnographic Museum. I wanted to visit the museum as it displays local Albanian artifacts within historic homes. Unfortunately, when I arrive, the lady who greets me tells me that only one part of the museum, the house below, is open. The other buildings are under renovation. This is a pattern I have encountered recently, as I had the same issue in Pejë, where the museum was being restored.

The first room I walk into is the traditional living room. Families would sit on the tiny chairs and eat dinner. The large discs against the wall are examples of table tops, while next to the fireplace are traditional metal bowls, plates, and accompanying cloches. I find it interesting that cloches were used to keep the food warm. In addition, the room served as sleeping quarters for women and children. This simple room with a small fireplace reminds me of traditional Irish eating arrangements.

Upstairs we pass by a small room, which was the nursery. The room is barely large enough for a bench and three small cribs. One woman would stay with the infants as it was warmer there. The nursery leads to the "man cave." The entryway to the nursery is through the door under the arch. This room which was off-limits to women, is ornate and lush compared to the rest of the house.

A carpeted sitting area would be large enough to accommodate all the family's men. Families lived with their children, their wives, and their children. A tiny house like this might have 20-30 people. A traditional woman's garment is displayed in the case to the right. Undoubtedly, some patriarchs would roll over in their graves if they knew this garment was displayed in this room. 

In the back of the room is a beautiful ornate closet. Built out of wood, this closet would have been used to store various things and frequently used as sleeping quarters. One of the things I noticed is that doorways are very low, which tells me that the Albanian people were not very tall at the time. Although the private tour did not last long, I enjoyed learning about Albanian culture.

After the museum, I resume wandering through Pristinë. Many of the government buildings are new and modern. This is the Vehicle Registration Center. It is undoubtedly responsible for implementing the solutions agreed to yesterday by Serbia and Kosovo. Within a few blocks of this location are several new government buildings. Lots of new infrastructures are needed when a country becomes independent. I reflected on my conversation with Okii Shoku the other day. To me, it looks like the government is doing a lot, but I acknowledge that the things governments feel are essential are not always the same things the masses think are important. A leadership conundrum for sure.

I am surprised to see this green van pass by with KFOR written on the side. Currently, there are about 3,600 soldiers of the Kosovo Force in Kosovo. The NATO armed forces represent 28 countries and have been in Kosovo since 1999 as a peace-support operation. 

Later, I pass this giant "NEWBORN" sign near the Youth Sports Complex. The link provides background on the sculpture. This iconic sculpture is repainted annually by the artist who makes a statement about the country's achievements and struggles. The sign was originally yellow and had 150,000 people sign it in 2008. The current version is dedicated to women's accomplishments and ongoing struggles in the country. The 2nd link provides a great view of the sculpture and story on its purpose in 2022. 

I love discovering the hidden stories behind cities. This sculpture has a great story, and I can't wait to see what it will look like in 2023!