Madrid (Spain) | Another Surprise - Day 137

Borja and I walked past the beautiful Puerta de Alcalá, which unfortunately is under renovation. The Puerta del Alcalá was commissioned by King Charles III and was built in 1778. The gate was to replace a much smaller gate leading to the city of Alcalá when Madrid was a walled city. Today it sits at the edge of Parque del Buen Retiro.

"Meet me at my work," says Bora around 1030 am. Borja works for a large clothing retail firm, ZARA. He's been there since he was 18 years old and has 14 years with the company. "Did you go to the Parque Retiro yesterday," he asks. No. I walked around in the rain downtown yesterday. It wasn't much of a park day. On the way, Bora plays tour guide. "This is the Banque d'Espagne à Madrid. It's where they keep all the gold in Spain," he says as we pass a large dark grey building. "This is the huh," and pauses as Borja checks Google Translate on his phone. "Town Hall," he finally says (pictured below).

Around noon, we reach the Parque del Buen Retiro (Good Retirement Park). The 1.4 sq. km (350 acres) park was once the exclusive playground of the monarchy, but in the late 19th century, it was gifted as a public park. In 2021, El Retiro was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Near the center is a monument to King Alfonso XII, known as the peacemaker. The beautiful site is adjacent to a vast lake, where people can rent row boats.

The park is stunning, and many of the trees are changing colors. Borja's pace has finally slowed, and we enjoy a casual stroll through the park together. We talk about careers, divorces, and living in Madrid.

Around 130 pm, we return to the tiny Mercado we visited on Sunday. The owner Pedrito (little Peter, pictured right), is happy to see us and greets us with a warm handshake. "You should try the Ceviche and Lomo Seltado (Peruvian beef stir fry), and I'll get the El Leche de Tigre," he says. 

Pedrito buys his fish for the Ceviche from vendors in the market, so it is always fresh. The Ceviche comes with sweet potato, boiled corn kernels, and roasted corn kernels. I tell Borja, this is the best Ceviche I've ever had. "Yes, Pedrito makes the best Ceviche in all of Madrid. It's authentic Peruvian Ceviche," he says. While eating, Borja introduces me to Man. "You've gotta meet Man. He's a Francophone," says Borja. Man is a large black man from the Democratic Republic of Congo with a long first name, so people call him by his last name, Man. 

Man has been in Madrid for 47 years and also speaks Spanish. So the three of us converse without a common tongue between the three of us. Borja speaks Spanish and English, Man speaks Spanish and French, and I speak French and English.

After lunch, I leave Borja around 3 pm as he heads to work. I decide to walk back towards the Palacio Real to photograph the site in daylight.

The Royal Palace is a magnificent building.

My phone pings me. It's Ivo sending me a picture, "This was Lap last night. Tomorrow we leave Madrid." Noway! I'm in Madrid too! We should get together for dinner, I reply. "Yeah, man, let's do it! How does 8 pm work for you," says Ivo. Perfect, see you then, I say. I can't believe this surprise and look forward to seeing them tonight. Lap, who never drinks, fell in love with Sangria and overdid it last night.

Near the Pailico Real, statues of the Spanish Monarchs line both sides of the courtyard. The oldest one dates back to 843 AD.

As I head to meet Ivo and Lap, I pass this strange building covered in plants. The building looks like a giant green jigsaw puzzle piece.

The sun is setting, and the colors of the sky tonight are stunning and highlight the magnificent skyline.

Walking to the restaurant from my Albergue takes me over an hour. Lap is surprised to see me. Ivo didn't tell him I was coming! I finally meet Nazdar, Ivo's girlfriend, who I've heard quite a bit about during the Camino. We share a fabulous seafood dinner. "You should take the subway with us, man," says Ivo. That sounds way better than walking an hour back, I say.

I've been blessed by this unexpected surprise. It is great to see Ivo, Lap, and Nazdar one last time before parting ways. "You should come to the Netherlands," says Nazdar. I would love to, but I am out of travel days on my travel visa, I reply. "Next spring, you should do it, man. I've got a car, and I'll drive you around, man," says Ivo. I say I can't wait to see you guys in the Netherlands before we make out way home via the metro.