Dubrovnik (Croatia) | A Progressive City - Day 141

Like other cities (e.g., Bristol, UK), Dubrovnik has its own Locks of Love display. The fence is high above the Adriatic Sea, halfway between the old town and the Lapad neighborhood. However, this one is unique because the locks deteriorate quickly due to the salty sea air. The most aged lock was attached about 10 years ago, but those left just 2 years ago are already rusting.

Today, I decide to revisit the old town of Dubrovnik, so I could take pictures in the daytime. The marble streets are like glass this morning. I remember Marina telling me last night that the streets in Dubrovnik are polished every morning. In ancient times, they were polished by hand. Nowadays, they use machines and complete the work before the city wakes up. Under the main road is a subterranean canal that once divided the city.

I stop at a local bakery for fresh orange juice and Burek. Burek is a local pastry that is frequently eaten around breakfast but can be enjoyed throughout the day. It is a savory pie made with flaky dough, often stuffed with meat, cheese, or vegetables. I pick the cheese and leek version, which reminds me of a heavy croissant. Sure is tasty!

This morning, tour groups are everywhere in the old city. I can't imagine what it would be like at the peak of the tourist season. However, this time of year, navigating around the groups and people is easy. Dubrovnik has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979. However, an earthquake in 1667 AD killed 5,000 people and caused significant damage. Then it was ravaged by a major fire. The city has been rebuilt and restored several times, most recently after the war. Nowadays, all kitchens are mandated to be on top floors. It is much harder for fire to burn down than up. 

However, the Homeland War in 1991-1993 caused the most damage. Marina covered this last night. When Dubrovnik was part of Yugoslavia, Josip Tito (Communist Leader) said states could leave Yugoslavia whenever they wanted, but everyone was afraid to. After he died in 1980, Croatia finally left Yugoslavia in 1991. However, the Serbs wished to keep Croatia as part of the Kingdom of Serbia because they needed a port and access to the sea. So they attempted to occupy Croatia in 1991. During that time, they heavily bombed the old city. Several maps in town show the location damage done to buildings. "The news said it was a Civil War. There was no Civil War. It was an attempt to forcefully occupy Dubrovnik by Serbia, Montenegro, and Kosovo," Marina said.

It is impossible to notice any damage these days. The city looks pristine. As I wander the streets this morning, I can't help but drift back to my time in Belfast and the Conflicting Stories Tour. There are always two sides to a conflict. I can't wait to explore other countries and see if I can uncover their truth.

The old port of Dubrovnik is predominantly used for small recreational crafts these days, like most other cities. This old port is too small for the enormous modern ships.

Another historical site Marina covered last night, sits across from the old port of Dubrovnik. Lazareti was Europe's first quarantine building (the building closest to the water in the photo below). The facility was built in Middle Ages in 1377 AD. Policy at that time required people that originated from a city known to harbor the Bubonic Plague to spend one month in quarantine before entering the city. "Life in Lazareti was difficult. Most people died. They either survived the month or died shortly after entering," said Marina. Dubrovnik was a very progressive place to live in the Middle Ages due to its wealth.

These are the interior cells of the Lazareti quarantine facility. Today the facility has been modernized to include restaurants and other shops.

Looking south across the old port.

Streets that run north-south in the old town of Dubrovnik are very narrow and have many stairs. On the other hand, east-west streets are usually wider and are on a single level. 

Another example of the progressiveness of Dubrovnik during the Middle Ages is the building with 5 arches below. Dubrovnik operated the first Customs Office in all of Europe. The Customs Office was the first thing merchants encountered when entering the city from the Gate (below the pink ribbon). 

This ancient building is currently under renovation. The old roof is being replaced. The building is stunning inside and now houses a small museum paying homage to those who lost their lives during the Homeland War (1991-1993).

I go south of the old port tonight and am fortunate to catch this old ship sailing into the sunset. This picture is stunning and it wouldn't be the same without the moon rising. I love the way the colors blend across the sky. Dubrovnik might be one of my favorite places to see sunsets.

The moon is giving me lots of opportunities to create some stunning photos tonight, my last night in Dubrovnik. Tomorrow, I plan to relocate to Budva, Montenegro, located south of here.