Dubrovnik (Croatia) | The Old City - Day 140

This was painted on a wall of the coffee shop I stopped at in Dubrovnik, and it caught my eye. This sign reminds me that I've been blessed to live a reality different from most. My reality is neither better nor worse than others. It is simply different. I am enjoying every moment that it brings.

I leave my Airbnb after doing laundry around 10 am. The cost with taxes for the studio apartment is 42 euros per night. It is halfway between the old town and the Lapad neighborhood. I paid a little extra for the convenience of the washing machine and location. Unfortunately, there is no dryer, so I head to the laundromat to dry my clothes. Dubrovnik is located in the foothills between the ocean and the mountains.

One of the things that takes some time to get used to in Dubrovnik is the coastline. It is oriented east to west and parallels the path of the sun. Meaning the sun is always coming from the same direction. It always rises and sets above the ocean. This makes it a challenge to get photos and throws my bearing off. I am used to the sun rising behind the mountains and setting above the ocean. This view looks northwest. 

When I arrive at the laundromat, I find an olive-skinned woman waiting for her laundry to be completed. I notice that the price to wash clothes is 50 kunas, the equivalent of 7 euros. This is about twice the price I have been paying, and I am glad I washed my clothes at the apartment. Nevertheless, I ask the woman if she could break 50 Kunas, as I don't want to carry many coins.

Fortunately, Fatiha (Faa-tee-ha) can help me, and we start chatting while my clothes dry. Our conversation begins in English, though I can tell it is not her primary language. So after telling her about my travels, I ask, "And where are you from?" When she tells me she is from the Paris region of France, I switch to French. I can tell she appreciates the switch. "Dubrovnik has the best old town in all of Croatia. But honestly, I am a bit surprised by the cost of the food here. It is much more expensive than other parts of Croatia and is closer to being on par with the rest of Europe. However, you should try the restaurant Kamenice in the old town. The food is great, and it's reasonably priced," she says.

I agree with Fatiha and noticed last night that the prices were much higher than I expected. I thank Fatiha for the tip and stuff my dry clothes into my back. I tell her we will see each other again, I am sure. Dubrovnik is not that big. It was a pleasure meeting you, and enjoy your day. She reciprocates as I walk out the door heading towards the old town (located in the background below).

The first site I arrive at is the iconic Minčeta Tower, located along the northwest corner of the city walls. This iconic tower was built in 1463 AD to defend against the Ottoman Empire and was also part of the HBO series Game of Thrones.

The Gate of Ponte, the west gate, is one of two gates that provides access to the old town. The Franciscan Monastery is visible above and behind the gate.

I opt not to enter the old city. Instead, I booked an evening tour of the Old Town for 112.50 Kunas (15 euros). Croatia only has three coins, 1, 2, and 5 Kunas; consequently, they round up on all transactions when paying cash. This morning, juice and pastry cost me 19.78 Kunas. It was rounded to 20 Kunas. Rounding up is something that is unique to Croatia. The view west from the Gate of Ponte.

The coastline is beautiful, and Dubrovnik has perhaps one of the calmest coastlines I have seen. The Adriatic Sea is like a giant lake. Swells and waves are noticeably absent. 

Around 535 pm, on my way to my evening tour, I catch the sun setting on the horizon. 

The lighting is much better now for taking pictures. I take another photo of the Gate of Ponte and the Franciscan Monastery.

Looking south of the Gate of Ponte, the wall continues to the other iconic defense post, Fort Bokar. This rounded fort is the most critical fortification along the city's western flank.

Across from Fort Bokar is the detached Lovrjanec (St. Lawrence Fortress). The sunset is subtle and quite beautiful tonight. Lovrjanec was also the place where they filmed scenes of Red Keep in Game of Thrones.

By the time our tour starts, it is dark. Marina is Croatian and a full-time city tour guide. There are only three of us tonight on tour. "You guys are going to get the private tour version tonight," Marina says. "Lovrjanec was built to protect the bay. The walls that face the ocean at > 3 m thick. Those that we can see are < 0.5 meters. This was created with a purpose. If Lovrjanec ever fell into enemy hands, it would be easy to attack from shore and Fort Bokar," she continues.

"What you need to remember about Dubrovnik is rich diplomats," she says. Marina tells us how Dubrovnik was an independent state for a long time because of the nearby salt mines. Salt was more precious than gold, and it made the city wealthy. Consequently, the diplomats of Dubrovnik negotiated with the Venetians to the west, and the Ottoman Empire to the south. The two empires were bitter rivals. Dubrovnik wanted to maintain its independence. 

Below is the main street of the old town. The green cross on the left in the hallway is the oldest pharmacy in Dubrovnik. It has been operating since the 1400s. In the picture below, a small group gathers to try their luck at true love. There is a small step built into the wall of the monastery. Legend says you will meet your true love if you climb onto this step, remove your shirt, and put it back on without falling. Unfortunately, most people that try cannot even stand on the step for any length of time before falling off. Notably, there is a black heart on the limestone wall. It has been formed from all the hands touching the limestone. It is noticeable just above the people's heads. That is pretty cool!

This beautiful building was once a parliamentary building. Today it serves as a museum. "Once there were > 8,000 Croatians that lived in the old town, today after the war and earthquakes, that number is < 200. The upper stories are mostly used as rentals now." Marina says.

This beautiful building is the Cathedral of the Assumption. There are approximately 20 Catholic Churches, Chapels, and Cathedrals, which is an incredible number for such a small city. "Dubrovnik was a diplomatic ally with the Venetians, which is why there are so many Catholic Churches here. They paid the Ottomans to stay out of the city. This is why there is no Islamic presence in Dubrovnik, unlike other cities in Croatia," Marina says

Once we walk down the street that leads up to the Jesuit Stairs, I recognize them instantly. These are the Game of Thrones Shame Stairs, where the iconic atonement scenes were filmed.

The tour concludes in front of the city fountain built by Italians. It still delivers potable spring water to the town for consumption. On the right is the oldest Church in Dubrovnik, dating back to the 1400s. However, this church is no longer being used as a place of worship, though it is still an important historic building.