My plane leaves Bristol at 150 pm today, and I still have this package I must deliver to UPS before I go. So, I leave the house at 7 am and arrive at UPS around a quarter to 9 am. I am just a few minutes short of not having to wait for any buses this morning. Nevertheless, I am finally able to part ways with my package. As I leave the facility, I feel great! It is a relief to finally let go of things that no longer serve me. I enjoy the deep sense of comfort and smile as I make my way to the bus stop. Finally, I am one step closer to the Camino. On the return bus, I glance down into a box where free copies of the morning paper are available for travelers. I laugh when I see this cartoon. We all have days when things don't seem to go our way. Fortunately, this is not one of those days.
After a quick stop at the house, I arrive at Bristol, Airport, about two hours ahead of my flight. Right on time. I stop by the currency exchange. I have a pile of coins totaling almost 8 quids and would like to shed the unnecessary weight. The lady behind the counter looks at me strangely, then laughs. "There's a 3 pound 50 charge," she says. I now understand why she was laughing. I join her and also laugh at my request. I think I'll spend them instead.
All passengers on EasyJet at Bristol are funneled through an enormous Duty-Free section before it opens up to a typical airport venue and waiting area. A large boutique selling sunglasses and advertising 20% off catches my eye. I wonder if it is time I replace my sunglasses. I've already had to make a repair to my Natives by gluing the nosepad back in place. There is an excellent selection of Oakley, Ray-Ban, Maui Jim, and several other brands. A pair of Maui Jim Breakwall polarized ultralight rimless glasses catch my eye. I love how they feel, ultralight, and they look great on me. I laugh as I put them back on the shelf.
I just shed a bunch of weight. No need to accumulate more stuff, and 130 quids can take me to many places these days. My current pair of Natives have a lifetime guarantee, and I can replace them for $20 with a brand new pair. I walk by another boutique that sells Nike Dri-fit T-shirts. A lovely orange, extremely breathable polyester shirt catches my attention. Perhaps it is time I shed my grey drab and opt for a lighter, more colorful alternative for the Camino. Again, I start laughing out loud. I pause to contemplate what is going on. I had no desire or need until I arrived at this airport to make these purchases. It feels like once I decided to burn a few quids, I have opened myself to all sorts of distractions. The one thing I have been looking for, a breathable pair of lightweight shorts for the Camino, still eludes me.
We land in Bordeaux, and I step off the plane into humid heat. It is 90 F (31 C) with 50% humidity. I didn't miss this at all! Outside the airport, I find a spot, take my pack out of the travel bag and place my laptop into my backpack. "Are you walking the Camino?" a friendly voice inquires. I stop and look up. In a few days, I respond. "I'm Mark. I am doing my 4th Camino. On my way to Saint-Jean-de-Pied-de-Port. I did the Portuguese Route from Lisbon, the last 100 km of the Frances, and this time I plan to walk the whole thing, including the Finisterra," he says. We connect right away. Mark, a retired nurse, recognized the clamshell patch on my pack.
To complete the Camino, you only need to walk the last 100 km (62 mi). This allows you to get your Pilgrim's Certificate. Finisterra, Spain is an additional 100 km portion that takes a Pilgrim from Santiago de Compostella to the Atlantic Ocean (i.e., the edge of the world). Mark is from Wales, between Cardiff and Swansea. We connect right away. "Buen Camino!" he says as we shake hands, then he moves on. I wish him the same. This is the customary greeting that Pilgrims exchange while on the Camino.
I run into Mark again at the bus stop about 10 minutes later and ask to sit with him so we could share the ride to Gare St.-Jean. We talk about Camino, our experiences, what we did for employment, and what brought us here. Mark has fond memories of his previous Caminos, which he completed in 1998. "How heavy is your pack," he asks. I tell him about 13 kilos (27 lbs), a bit heavy, but I'm feeling good about the weight and the equipment I let go of this morning. And yours? "I'm at 5 kilos (11 lbs)," he says with a smile. Once we reach Gare St. Jean, we part ways again. I look forward to when our paths cross again, Mark. Buen Camino! "Buen Camino to you as well!" Below is Mark with his very light 5-kilo (11 lb) backpack (pictured below). As he heads off amongst the crowd, I envy his tiny pack. My pack and laptop comprise nearly 4 kilos (9 lbs) of my weight, so I am good with what I carry.
Finally, I get settled into the Hostel. I look at my phone. Wow! It is already 630 pm. Time to get some food. I make the 5-minute walk back to Gare St. Jean, hoping to catch a bus downtown. Once at the bus station, I find that I am completely disoriented. I can't recall which phone app I used to buy tickets during the week I spent here. I've also already forgotten the routes of the buses which I knew so well. I apparently have conditioned myself to let go of this information once I leave a city. Perhaps this is a downside of immersing myself fully in my travels.
Finally, I find a bus heading near where I want to go. I know I could have done better, but this will work for now. I am tired of searching routes and climb aboard Bus 5. Once I step off the bus near La Grosse Cloche, I wander the streets. Bordeaux is still as lovely as I remember. When I pass by Les Moules de Cabanon (The Cabanon Mussels), I stop. The Mussels look great, so I order a pot of Mussels with a Roquefort cheese cream sauce and a half bottle of organic white wine from Entre-Deux-Mers. The mussels are delicious, cooked perfectly, and that sauce is fantastic!
Once I am done with dinner, I pull out my phone to look up the best path back. I remember there was a tram nearby. Maybe it's because I am no longer hungry that I appear to be thinking clearly again, or the temperature is cooling off, but this time I have no issues calling up the information. Tram C takes me back to Gare St. Jean. I am tired from the flight, but before I can call it a night, I need to book accommodations for the next few days and reserve a train ticket.
I wasn't able to explore Biarritz and Bayonne before I left. I remember Nicolas and Camille told me that the southwest coast is a great part of France. I looked several times before heading to Bordeaux, but August is a hectic month for this part of the country. This time, I find a place to stay in Biarritz, the little town on the coast. I book my Airbnb, then my train ticket, and call it a night. Another benefit is that Bayonne and Biarritz are on the way to Irun, Spain, the starting point of my Camino.
Mussels!
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