St. Davids (Wales) | A Dose of Vitamin Sea - Day 79

A spectacular morning! I am blessed to have weather like this and for my last day on the trail. This is the view when I rejoin the path from my campsite near Slova.

After climbing up from the beach, I can see St. David's head in the distance. St. Davids is not only the smallest city in Wales, but it is also renowned as a Holy pilgrimage site. In Medieval times the pilgrimage route to St Davids was as important as the Camino de Santiago in Spain. In 1123 A.D., Pope Calixtus II declared that two pilgrimages to St Davids were the equivalent of one to Rome and three to Jerusalem. As a result, thousands of pilgrims from varied backgrounds, including Kings such as William the Conqueror and Henry II, made their way to this remote part of west Wales. I intentionally chose the Southern Route from Pembroke Dock to St. Davids for my pilgrimage. It is approximately 60 miles long and was an excellent test for me. My mini Camino.

As I pivot south, I can see way off to the right, where I started several days ago. The sun shimmering on the water is a beautiful site this morning. It feels great to have come so far in a few short days. The sun feels lovely on my skin today. 

I love it when trails give me beautiful shots like this one. This is the only place where the vegetation completely envelopes the path. I love the bright sunshine at the end of this tunnel. It reminds me to push through when I am grounded in purpose.

This natural harbor is one of the most striking features I've seen along the path thus far. I am amazed at how far I can see today!

As I pass to the other side of the harbor, I notice several rappelling anchors near the edge, then I see a woman beginning her rappel down the cliff. 

After watching her descend out of sight, I shed my pack and enjoy the sunshine and the fantastic view.

As I sit here overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, I reflect on where I've been and my experiences since arriving on this side of the big pond. The day after my birthday, I left the world I knew behind and hopped on a plane, not knowing what lay ahead. I think back to the 100+ km I hiked in Ireland, some of the most challenging terrains I've ever hiked, my rehab over the last 9 weeks, and the tiny trials I have put myself through. I remember all the wonderful people I've met along the way and those back home who have helped me in many ways. I am finishing my pilgrimage to St. Davids today because of all these pieces. I notice a feeling of gratitude and excitement rising up within me. I am ready for my next adventure, the Camino Del Norte in Spain. Then I smile as I realize my experience thus far parallels the Hero's Journey. 

I recall a passage by Joseph Campbell in Pathways to Bliss, one of his books, that resonated with me. In the book, he notes that Life isn't about successfully completing a single Hero's Journey. Still, instead, it is about being willing to risk embarking on countless journeys (i.e., endeavors) over and over again. The key to being a hero in your Life is fueled by a desire to seek out things that bring you joy. It is not about the journey's outcome but rather the willingness to rinse and repeat the process (i.e., create and explore the unknown). According to Campbell, "Life is not a void to be filled. It is a plenitude to be discovered." I sit here and let my thoughts drift in and out about what lies ahead. Finally, I drink some water, stand up and tell myself that these miles won't walk themselves.

This is the north side of the natural harbor from my vantage point. Down below, against the rocks, I notice a stand-up paddleboarder.

About 4 miles from my starting point, I arrive at Caerfai Beach. Notably, this scenic beach is busy this morning.

The sights this morning are spectacular! I can see St. Non's Bay behind the point in the foreground. The city of St. Davids is just visible on the right side of the photo.

I arrive at St Non's Bay, peel off the trail, and head for St. Davids. The path leads me to the ruins of St. Non's Chapel and the St. Non's Well. The Chapel is where a woman named Non gave birth to David during a thunderstorm. While giving birth, Non gripped the rock so tightly that a spring appeared nearby, now recognized as the site of St. Non's Well. St. Non's Well is believed to be able to heal infirmities. Below is what remains of St. Non's Chapel.

It takes me another 2 mi (3 km) to reach the city of St. Davids. As I near the town, I can see the top of St. Davids Cathedral towering over the city.

I wander down to the Cathedral gate and check the time. It's 1230 pm. I turn around and decide I should grab lunch before restaurants close at 2 pm. I know an hour isn't enough time to enjoy this ancient site built in the 600s A.D.

I wander by Grain, a wood-fired outdoor pizza restaurant. The aroma is so inviting I can't pass it up as I walk by. The waitress recommends L'Italiano pizza (below). Damn, she was right! This pizza with fresh arugula, mozzarella, roasted tomatoes, pancetta, parmesan, and Caesars dressing is strangely fantastic! My cold pint of Fossil Fuel, a milk stout, compliments the pizza well. I remember the owner at L'Hotel du Commerce telling me, "If the ingredients are fresh, the pizza will be good." This pizza might rival his delicious creation as the best pizza of my trip thus far.

I check the surrounding campsites, and most are fully booked. The one located at Whitesands Beach is first come, first served. Probably best that I go pitch my tent before wandering down to the Cathedral. First, I stop by an ice cream stand and order a scoop of Celtic Crunch on a sugar cone. I laugh; I don't think I've eaten this much ice cream in the summer; however, I love European ice cream. It is so silky smooth, and fluffy compared to north American varieties. 

I walk across the street and wait for the Celtic Cruiser bus to arrive. This is perfect. The Celtic Cruiser runs every 30 min between 830 am and 630 pm. So I'll be able to not only come back this afternoon, but I will be able to ride back to town in the morning to make a connection to Fishguard to catch the train. I arrive at the campsite around 3 pm. Whitesands Beach is packed today, and it's only Thursday. Can't imagine what it would be like on the weekend. The view from my campsite, looking south, is pretty amazing! I am so grateful to be able to enjoy sites like these. I am excited by the idea of star gazing tonight! I haven't seen a great sky since I left, close to 3 months ago. The skies have either been blocked out by clouds or drowned out by the intensity of the city lights.

In addition to getting a good spot, I can use the sunshine to dry my tent and a few other items that are still wet from the previous day's journey. After setting up camp, I barely miss the 4 pm shuttle back to St. Davids. So, I have to wait till 430 pm for a ride back into town. I remember that when I first arrived, I considered walking the road from St. Davids to Whitesands. It is approximately 1.75 mi (2.8 km). After riding aboard the Celtic Cruiser, I am glad I didn't. The road is barely wide enough for one vehicle and has no shoulder, making it extremely challenging to navigate a bus when there is oncoming traffic. It would also be very unsafe for a pedestrian. Nevertheless, I'm glad to be in good hands and on the bus!

Once back in town, I wander towards the Cathedral when I pass a pastie shop. Oh my goodness, that smells absolutely delicious. I pause for a second to look at the time. It's 510 pm. If I grab a pastie now, I won't need to eat again tonight. So, I walk into Losh's Pasties and tell the shop owner how lovely her shop smells. She laughs and replies, "It's not so lovely when you go home smelling like this." We both laugh! I order a warm Cornish pasty and glance to the cooler for a drink. No Way! Sitting right there in the cooler is the Dandelion and Burdock soda that Dylan recommended. I tell the shop owner, you don't realize how hard I looked for this in Northern Ireland. She laughs at me. I don't think she's ever seen anyone so excited about this product. 

The pasty is terrific. A traditional Cornish pasty is a hand pie filled with beef and vegetables served warm. The whole meal cost me 4.50 quids. I can't wait to sample the soda, so I crack it open. Dylan says it tastes like root beer. Klaudia, I must let you know that I agree with Dylan. This soda is delicious! I can see the resemblance to root beer. It is closer in mouthfeel and resembles taste to a cream soda crossed with a mild ginger beer. 

I laugh. Here it is finally in my hand, Dandelion and Burdock soda. I stop to recall a conversation I had with Adam Romain just a few days ago, "Sometimes it is like my affinity for something pushes it out of reach. I just can't ever seem to attain it. It's like two magnets with the same polarity, me and what I desire." We talked about the importance of learning to let go of desires, thoughts, and other things that keep us from enjoying the moment so that what we seek can find its way into our lives. "It's hard to do," he said. I agree. It is hard to do but incredibly rewarding, like this soda, when I eventually cross paths with it. 

I finally make my way down to St. Davids Cathedral. A stunning building with the Bishop's Palance in the background. 

This Romanesque-style Cathedral resembles more a castle than a church. Nevertheless, it is the best representation of a Medieval church in Wales.

As I walk into the Cathedral, several things catch my attention. The interior is a natural stone, and the marble floor slopes gently upward towards the organ. I don't mind taking a photo of the interior today. No one is worshiping. Today St. Davids is a concert hall. The magnificent ceilings are made of wood. I love these features and immediately fall in love with the simplicity and natural feel of the interior. I also notice there was an orchestra rehearsing. Learn more about the history of St. Davids and see additional interior pictures via the link.

I record a few minutes of the Welsh National Orchestra preparing for an Opera show tonight. The concert is part of summer series called the Fishguard Concert Series. I check the venue for tickets, but No Joy. 

St. Davids has many great features. St. Davids is now my favorite Cathedral, supplanting St. Sernin in Toulouse, France. Below are the ruins of the Bishop's Palace. Unfortunately, I arrived too late, and it was closed for the day.

I catch the last bus leaving the city of St. Davids at 630 pm. Wow! Traffic is a real mess. A row of cars parked half on the curb and half in the street adds to the chaos and further bottlenecks the road. Our driver is cool as ice and patiently navigates through the mess. As I watch the sunset, I spend time on this blog. As it sets, the clouds move in and block the sun on the horizon. There is no evening glow. I wait for the sky to darken and start recognizing a few constellations. The Big Dipper and Cassiopeia are the first I see. Next, I notice three satellites moving through the sky as they orbit the earth. Unfortunately, the clouds move in before I can identify other constellations. Today was a fantastic day! I am grateful to have had dry gear and reached my end point on this journey.