Bordeaux (France) | Arcachon et Cap Ferret - Day 57-58

Yesterday was a travel day, actually, a long and uneventful day. I am particularly fond of uneventful travel days; this usually means there were no complications. There wasn't much to see on the train ride, despite my 1st class ticket for the upper deck. The train ride from Lourdes to Bordeaux was about 3 hrs. Unfortunately, on this trip, I could not align my check-out (11 am), travel (3 hours), and check-in (730 pm) schedules. So, when I wasn't on the train, I spent much of the day getting caught up on the blog. A perk of travel days, for which I am grateful. I found a cybercafe with AC in both towns, keeping me cool and out of the heat. Below is the Gare Bordeaux Saint-Jean (Saint-Jean Train Station Bordeaux). 

One of the things I notice right away when I leave the station is the volume of electric bicycles and scooters that clutter the street corners of Bordeaux. This is one example; I count at least 6 different companies. I remember the City of Fort Collins in Colorado struggling through this very problem. There they opted to license only one company. I can understand and appreciate their decision. 

After arriving at my Airbnb around 8 pm, I head out for dinner. I find a little pizza restaurant that also has pasta on the menu. I ordered the shrimp linguini pasta with mushrooms, onions, and zucchini squash. It is delightful and a nice change of pace. The dish is tasty, the pasta is cooked perfectly, and the veggies are refreshing.

Dessert tonight is mascarpone cannolis. Cannolis are fried pastry dough; the dish is native to Sicily. The mascarpone whipped cream combination is fluffy and light, which I enjoy.

The next day, I decided to explore Arcachon Bay. I take a train about an hour southwest of Bordeaux and arrive at Arcachon. Cap Ferret, which I also plan to visit, is located across the bay from Arcachon. This area is famous for two things, beaches, and oysters. I am looking forward to eating fresh oysters. Arcachon is on the bay's southern side, busy and humming with activity. Cap Ferret refers to the peninsula that is northwest of the bay. Generally, the towns, which there are many, on the north side are less touristy because they are more difficult to access without a car. They are also predominantly oyster farming villages. The south side towns are known for sizeable white sand beaches and are a popular destination to escape the heat of inner cities in France.

White sand beaches abound in Arcachon, and I find the Atlantic Ocean to be cool and refreshing after a hot walk on the beach, even more so than in the Mediterranean Ocean. Below is a picture looking north across the bay. Notice Cap Ferret in the distance.

Arcachon is a non-descript town, and I find it challenging to connect with it today. There isn't anything that stands out or catches my eye. So I pause to evaluate if my hunger is affecting my judgment. After wandering around and grabbing an ice cream cone, I determine that Arcachon is simply a plain little town. However, one thing that does catch my eye is this sculpture. It is located in front of the Hotel de Ville. I love how vibrant it is. 

Around 4 pm, I take the boat ferry across to Cap Ferret. Notice the people returning from Cap Ferret, which are disembarking in Arcachon. I am looking forward to the trip across the bay. The ferry takes about 30 minutes. Once we leave port, the air gets noticeably cooler. Many people are putting on their jackets. I love the cool breeze today. It reminds me of my time in Arcata, where we frequently headed out from McKinleyville, California fishing for King Salmon. I always enjoyed those days on the Pacific Ocean. They were a great way to escape the heat like today.

 

The bay is full of activity; sailing, touring, and fishing boats are everywhere. However, I notice another popular destination south of Arcachon, Le Dune de Pilat (Dune of Pilat). It is a single dune that stretches along the coastline and is the highest in Europe. I laugh; it is tiny compared to the Imperial Sand Dunes in southern California, United States. The Imperial Sand Dunes are 6 mi (9.5 km) wide by 45 mi (72 km) long and are an iconic Hollywood film spot for Star Wars (Tatooine), among other movies. When I was in high school, we spent a great deal of time near the little town of Glamis, where we would ride 2-wheel drive sport ATVs at every opportunity. Although it is tiny, Le Dune du Pilat is beautiful to see along the coastline.  

I disembark in Cap Ferret and notice the large oyster beds that line the beach front. The tide is coming in and will cover these beds fully in a few hours.

When I land in Cap Ferret, two things strike me right away besides the oyster beds. Firstly, there are bicycles everywhere and lots of places to rent one. Secondly, it is serene here. There are plenty of people and cars around; however, the usual sounds of the city, such as traffic noises, restaurant chatter, and sirens, are all absent. It is bliss to be on this side of the bay, and I am glad I decided to come over.

This side of Arcachon Bay is more "blue collar"; it is the working side. Lots of small fishing and oyster boats line the beach here. I am surprised to see this many beached boats. Had I been here at high tide, I would never have known that these boats beach themselves during low tide, which is the "norm" here.

I decide to walk south along Cap Ferret to explore; I am hoping this leads me away from the main port and the new tourists that arrive every hour. I pass a small local oyster vendor. They are selling 5 sizes ranging from 6 to 12 euros per dozen. All the oysters are fresh from this morning.   

I find a little oyster bar, Chez Bertrand, along the beach. I wait close to 45 minutes for it to open and decide this is better than walking back to the port. As the waitress seats me, she asks if I want to eat oysters today. I tell her, yes, and she replies with "C'est chouette!" (say-shoowet; That's great!) I haven't heard anyone say that in a long time. I love hearing how it sounds, and I used that term quite a bit when I was a kid. I smile. I just regained part of my lost vocabulary. Below is dinner, a dozen oysters, 6 peel and eat shrimp, bread, and a glass of rosé, 24 euros. She brings my dinner and points into the bay. "Today's oysters are from an area halfway between here and the Island of Birds," she says.

I am cold from sitting in the shade when I finish dinner, around 7 pm. The second time in a week I've been cold. I love it! The ocean breeze from the west side of the Cap Ferret comes straight from the Atlantic and is noticeably cooler than in Arcachon. As I make my way to the boat, I notice the oyster beds are entirely covered by the incoming tide. The wooden stakes identify where the beds are so vessels can avoid them, and the farmers can locate them quickly.

We take a covered boat ride back to Arcachon. It's a good thing too, myself and many of the passengers are cold. After landing around 8 pm, I walk toward the bus station to catch my 830 train back to Bordeaux. I accidentally pass the street I need to turn on. I don't really care as I have plenty of time, and wander into this beautiful display of sand art. I finally found that special moment in Arcachon and could have easily missed it had I walked a different route. There are reptiles, fish, birds, mammals, and local and exotic wildlife. A beautiful display of talent.

The artist is very talented. The octopus and buzzard are stunning.

I wonder how long it has taken him to sculpt and paint these pieces? I reach into my pocket and toss all the coins onto his mat. I have been waiting and hoping to get rid of these coins for days, now is the perfect moment.

The thing I love most about this display, it is temporary. Soon these beautiful creations will all disappear, a reminder that we exist in the present, not in the past or future. It reminds me of a Buddha board and is a reminder to let go of the past and not be afraid to create (i.e., do).