Bordeaux (France) | A Surprising Elegance - Day - 59

Bordeaux was on my list of places to visit long before I got here. However, I put it off as long as possible to allow the fires to dwindle before venturing to the city. Finally, when I arrived yesterday, the skies were clear, and the fires seemed no longer an issue, at least in terms of air quality. This was confirmed by my Airbnb host.

I am not sure what to expect from the city of Bordeaux today; a significant portion of the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city has been well known since the Middle Ages due to its popularity as a wine-producing region; however, it has not always been popular with tourists due to the town's industrial nature. In addition, the city once had a black crust on the buildings and has spent a lot of effort, including laser restoration, to bring back the natural color of the limestone. I get my first view of the city as I cross the Garonne River via the Pont de Pierre (below).

My initial impression is the city feels muted and dull; all the visible buildings are a white-tan color. However, as I wander the streets, I notice that limestone is the preferred stone. Bordeaux was built using natural stone. All buildings, not just important ones in the city center, are of limestone. To my surprise, I can't find paint anywhere. I haven't seen many cities that extend the use of natural stone to all buildings. Bordeaux is unique in this way. The subdued appearance I first noticed gives Bordeaux a regal presence, and I enjoy how it looks and feels. I find my admiration for the city growing with each passing minute and with each new building I see. 

I pull out my phone and verify that limestone was used for the construction. However, I am surprised to learn that > 1,400 limestone quarries were mined in the surrounding area to build this city. Most of the mines are located underground. No wonder the stone is everywhere; it was so cheap and readily available. A quick aside, there is growing concern over the voids created from mining limestone, and there is fear that some of these extensive underground man-made features may collapse.  

One of the first sights I encounter is the beautiful Port Cailhau (Cailhau Gate). The magnificent gate stands 35 m (115 ft) tall. It was one of several gates into the Medieval City of Bordeaux, built around 1493 AD. 

The backside reveals more of the story. In the picture below, you can see on either side of Port Cailau the places where walls were once attached to the massive gate.

Crossing the threshold, I notice this bronze plaque below my feet. It describes the importance of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques and how Bordeaux has been an essential stop for pilgrims walking the Paris-Tours route. In addition, it makes reference to visiting the Basilica Saint-Searin in Toulouse. I enjoy connecting all my experiences in Southern France via a common thread - The Way of Saint-James. 

I continue to wander and reach Place de la Bourse (Town Square); the picture below only represents half of the Place de la Bourse. The other half is under renovation (photo left). Nevertheless, the buildings and their 18th-century architecture are stunning. 

This is where appreciation for the city changed. Once I realized that all buildings, not just the important ones, were made of limestone, I started to see the city differently. I began to appreciate the beauty and essence of Bordeaux. 

I can hear the sound of swing music in the distance. It sounds familiar. I walk towards it and discover a group of folks dancing to Maddest Kind of Love-Big Bad Voodoo Daddy. Big Bad Voodoo Daddy is a contemporary big band swing group. I really enjoy their music. I find a place to sit in the shade and watch the folks dance for several songs. They are part of a dance class called Tap Swing in Bordeaux. When the song changes, new pairs are formed, and they dance in the little spot of shade under the tree.

While having lunch, I create a Spotify playlist of all the great songs I have encountered on my travels thus far. It's a fascinating world we live in, where I can access every song and artist at my fingertips. No need to spend hours creating a mixed tape; simply type and tap. Voilah! When I am done, I realize my list is already quite extensive. When I hear a new song that resonates in the future now, I can simply add it to my list.

I wander further north and stumble into this beautiful picture. I love how the light funnels through the leaves and how the contrast of the tree trunks creates a dark corridor deep into the background. This is near one of Bordeaux's most spectacular historical sites, the Monument aux Girondins.

The Monument aux Girondins (Monument of Girondins) is a stunning fountain with proportions that blow my mind. Its beauty is reviled only by the Palais Longchamp in Marseille. Unfortunately, my midday pictures do not do justice, so here is a link to follow on the English History and French History of Monument aux Girondins. If you can't read French, visit the English site, then the French site. The French site has stunning pictures, and you will understand what you are viewing. This monument appears here as the Girondins are from the surrounding area of Bordeaux.

I have only started logging the miles today, and there are so many great sites in Bordeaux. The Appellate Court is not on any tourist agendas; however, the building is magnificent. I especially enjoy the four giant statues of judges that adorn the top. Unfortunately, construction equipment occupies the square in front of the court today. This is the best angle I get.

One of the four giant statues that adorn the top of the courthouse.

On the south side of Bordeaux, I pass by the Grosse Cloche (the big clock), which once served as the city's south gate. This gate is still attached to the surrounding buildings.

A close-up of the big clock that still operates today.

These are apartment buildings away from the city center. Notice how they are all built using limestone and how the skyline is irregular. This distinctive skyline adds depth and beauty to the city.

The city's beauty continues to impress me, with tan marble sidewalks in Bordeaux. I so enjoy walking on marble! I especially am fond of the iron anchors that keep the curb in place; notice them and the beautiful patina in the photo.

I am unsure how many miles I've logged today, but it feels like a bunch. I finally settle in for dinner at Chez Jean, a little brasserie in this beautiful square. I am impressed with Bordeaux; it might be one of my favorite big cities on this trip.

While waiting for dinner, I order an aperitif, a white martini. It consists of chilled white vermouth, tonic water, and a lemon wedge. It tastes light and refreshing with just a hint of sweetness. 

Dinner tonight consists of potatoes and wild boar. The potatoes are cooked to perfection. The meat, on the other hand, is dry and overcooked. A real disappointment. As Chez Jean has excellent reviews. I have been blessed with great meals on this trip; occasionally, I will have some that are not up to par. This was one of those nights.

On my way home, I pass by an annual free concert series that happens for two nights along the east bank of the River Garonne. L'Astroshøw is an open-air free concert that is an eclectic mix of rock, dance, and modern electric music. When I arrive, The Haunted Youth is on stage. They are a Belgium group. I surprised myself; I didn't realize I needed this experience. I feel myself drawing energy from the music and the surrounding crowd. It feels great to listen to live music and move with the flow of the music. The Haunted Youth's performance of Coming Home is fantastic! It is on par with some of the great shows I've seen, such as Dave Matthews Band. Nothing is better than listening and watching musicians "play off-script" while reading each other's cues, wholly wrapped up in each other's presence and the moment they share. Tonight The Haunted Youth gained at least one new fan.

I look down at my phone; wow! It is late, 1230 pm and I've missed all the buses, except the last one at Gare Saint-Jean. So I start the long walk to the train station. Fortunately, I am able to catch the last bus home.