Lourdes (France) | Hidden Below the Surface - Day 50

I open the balcony doors at 8 am, stretch and do my Qigong (chi-gong) routine this morning. Qigong is similar to the better known Tai chi but does not involve the martial arts movement. Instead, think of Tai chi as a specialized form of Qigong. Both involve gentle fluid movements focused on breathwork. A great way to relax as well as gather energy for the day. I load up my pack and head for the train station around 850 am. It only takes 15 minutes for me to walk the 1+ km (0.6 mi) to the bus station.

During the hour-long train ride, we pass through Le Parc National de Narbonnaise en Méditeranée. The sun is low on the horizon in the east, and I can see even more of the reserve this time. Flamingos seem to be everywhere, as are Slender-billed Gulls, Pallid Swifts, and Kentish Plovers. The light is excellent, and here is what the part of the area looks like.

I disembark in Narbonne about 20 min to 11 am. My connection isn't till 230 pm, so I have some time to explore this city. I'm looking forward to it. I have passed through the Narbonne a few times and have opted to bypass it until now. On Day 4 of my travels, I said that blessings come when you least expect them. On Day 4, I had a 2-hr layover in Donegal Town, Ireland. This is another unexpected blessing, a 3-hr layover in Narbonne.

I am attuned by now to assessing a city's vibe. Within a few minutes of leaving the train station, I gather information using several of my senses. Soaking in the sites, and smells, listening to cues about the city. This city tells me I have some exploring to do, and it has a mysterious vibe. The Narbonne train station is pictured below. 

I will need to grab lunch before returning to the train station, but I am not hungry now. So, with my pack on my back, I head away from the train station. I pass through a large roundabout that has been converted to green space. I love seeing greenery in urban areas. However, I am always concerned that humans are becoming too accustomed to life without green space and the beautiful critters that inhabit them. Although green space is essential to me, and I need it near me, I still wonder if people can survive without it. I see plenty of clues in my travels suggesting that I am a minority in needing to feel connected to the natural environment. Dylan, Klaudia, and I discussed this when we were near Glenties in the United Kingdom. We agreed that a slow shift is currently happening in people. The natural environment appears less important to people, particularly in urbanized areas. We also discussed whether this change is happening consciously or are people are subconsciously being reconditioned to exist without green space.

As I wander through the narrow streets of Narbonne, I pass by this beautiful building. It is one of my favorites thus far. The old beige stucco has weathered and broken off from the foundation of the apartment building, revealing what appears to be the original construction. 

How many times has this building been renovated for it to still be used today? If the outside looks like this, what does the inside look like? Doesn't it feel like this building, with its exposed irregular-shaped rocks, has a story to tell? All the surrounding buildings have intact stucco and are rather bland. The wooden door below is pretty great too!

Speaking of things we miss by focusing on the surface, Narbonne is one of the few cities in this part of France that has preserved ancient Roman sites. The Roman name for the city of Narbonne was Narbo Martius. The first site I reach is the Horreum Romain (Roman Granary) museum. Horrea (plural) were underground storerooms built by the Romans, a standard feature of Roman cities, forts, and towns. Romans used horrea to store wine, grain, olives, weapons, and other consumables underground. Carbon dating traces this site back to 118 BC. Below are some artifacts and artificial fruits on display in the museum before I enter the horreum.

The horreum is 5 m (16.5 ft) underground below the city's current level. Walking down the stairs, I can smell the musty cool earthy air from the subterranean complex below. Smells just like many of the abandoned mines I've visited in Wyoming. I like the smell and feel of the heavy, damp, cool air.

The horreum is a complex of passages and small adjoining rooms on either side of the central passage. The complex is quite extensive. In 1838, local town folk notified authorities of this site, which they had used for centuries privately as their storage area. In 1961, it was declared a historic site and opened to the public in 1976. 

A wine cellar.

The site is interesting because many things, like this broken stone wheel in the corner, can be easily overlooked and missed.

Or remnants of the original paint decorations. Notice the white-colored areas behind the display of pots and on the wall on the right. I have slightly manipulated the colors in this photo to enhance the contrast between the rock walls and the original paint.

Another thing I notice, there are at least 4 or maybe 5 different wall construction types. Notice the difference in orientation of the stone between the two vertical walls. The two wall styles correspond to different periods and technology used by the Romans to build this site.

This remnant of plaster is on the ceiling of one of the tunnels.

And on the main wall heading out of the site.

Some rooms are staged with items that likely would have been kept in the horreum. 

A short distance away, in the town square across the l'Hôtel de Ville, is a well-displayed remnant of an old Roman road that also lies below the surface. The road comprised of big round stones is 6-7 ft (2 m) below the elevation of the current town square. Narbonne was at the crossroads of the Via Domitia (pictured here in the pit) and Via Aquitania. 

The Via Domitia was the first road built by Romans in France. 

The Via Domitia linked Northern Italy to the eastern coast of Spain and passed through several towns in Gaul (France). This short video highlights historical features along Via Domitia in France. The Via Aquitania started in Narbonne and traveled west 400 km (250 mi) through Toulouse and Bordeaux, connecting trade along the Atlantic and Mediterranean. Below is l'Hôtel de Ville; notice the Via Domitia exhibit in the center of the square.

I pass a hotel building that was established in 1648. The sculptures catch my eye, particularly the melancholy expressions on the men who seem to be holding up the balcony. I love the attention to detail and how these are entirely different from anything else I have seen in Narbonne and France thus far.

I grab a sandwich from a little boulangerie (bakery shop); in the distance, I hear music radiating from a local restaurant; it drowns out the bustle of the crowd. It sounds familiar, then I recognize it's Hot Stuff by Donna Summer. I pause in the shade as I pass the restaurant to enjoy the song. I am reminded of the movie The Martian, with Matt Damon and the scene where he says, "I have scoured every single data file on Commander Lewis' personal drive. This is officially the least disco song she owns." The beat has picked me up, and I laugh cause now the song is on an endless loop in my head!

I get to the train station early, pull out my earbuds, and open Spotify; I am looking specifically for Hot Suff. I find Disco Fever: The Best Hits of Disco Music, the first song on the list, is what I am looking for. I hit play. I drift into my own world with my Noise-canceling earbuds. With my pack still on my back, I start bouncing, singing, and dancing, consuming way more space than I usually take up waiting for a train. I feel great today and am having a great time! The first 5 songs are Hot Stuff-Donna Summer; Good Times-CHIC; I Will Survive-Gloria Gaynor; Styin' Alive-Bee Gees; and We Are Family-Sister Sledge. I ride the disco train all the way to Toulouse.   

In Toulouse, I swap trains and head for Lourdes, France. Along the way, we pass the biggest airplane boneyard I have seen. The Tarbes-Lourdes graveyard at the regional airport is massive. I notice all the different colored tails and strange airline company logos from all over the world as we speed by on the train. The facility is Europe's largest boneyard; it is where airplanes go to die. I am impressed by the number of planes and the bright display of colors on the aircraft.   

As the train continues, I reflect on my day in Narbonne and wonder about all the great things we miss when we only focus on the surface. And how easy it is nowadays to avoid exploring below the surface. Then my focus shifts. I drift back to when I hid my character to blended into my environment, afraid to reveal the values, experiences, and wisdom that grounds my character. Undoubtedly this is why my visit to Narbonne has resonated with me today.

Welcome to Lourdes, France, the High Pyrénées. My first impression of Lourdes, it feels right and scenic, and the air temperature is pleasant, in the high 70s. 

After getting settled in, I head out to search for dinner. I stop wandering when I reach Alexandra By Le Bon Sens. Dinner begins with a tiny plate of marinated carrots with dried olives. The dried black olives are a tasty little garnish that works well with the carrots. 

Next is the entrée. On the right is an arugula salad with a lightly toasted sliced baguette. On the left is Fois Gras (Duck Liver Paté). Fois Gras is a famous French delicacy. Dollops of Mint Jelly (green) and fig jelly are on the plate. The little bread bowl has four different house-made pieces of bread: Foccacia, Sesame, Paprika, and plain. The Fois Gras is astounding! It has a delicate buttery texture that melts in my mouth. The flavor is subtle and unique. Wow, is this good!

The main course is Duck Confit with roasted potatoes, arugula, and fresh pesto. Confit is a French cooking process that uses low temperature and slow cook times to preserve meat. It is commonly associated with waterfowl; however, the technique is more widely used nowadays. Confit works great on duck and goose legs because it breaks down all the muscles and connective tissue that can make this part of the bird tough and chewy. First impressions, I need to learn this technique! This drumstick is beyond my ability to describe; the flavors are complex. The taste reminds me of a smoked turkey drumstick; however, it is much more delicate and lacks all the connective tendons I normally find on a turkey. This is quite a delight!

As fantastic as this meal is, I am not done. The special meal tonight includes dessert, a cream puff pastry with vanilla ice cream hidden in the middle, chocolate sauce, thin slices of almonds, and fresh whipped cream. Add a glass of red wine, and the meal cost me 32 euros. I have had meals that cost 3x this in the Unitd States and were not nearly as lovely as this meal was.