Perpignan (France) | A Turning Point - Day 48

The photo below was taken inside the Palais des Rois de Marjorque; it is a vivid video loop projected onto an interior wall of the Palais. The video explains the everyday life of the people and their culture.

I am feeling well rested this morning. A little dry, cool air can work wonders for sleeping. I have two things on my agenda this morning, reconcile my expenses for the past 3 weeks and begin to work through where I am headed next. After some time, my reconciliation is done. To my surprise, I am averaging $111 in expenses per day while in France. I thought I was spending way more due to the train fares. However, I am close to the $102 average I spent in Ireland, so I feel good, and it is good news for me. 

Now that I have a clear idea of my expenses, it is time to explore future destinations. I know I have more wandering in southwest France I want to do. The question is when to do it. I want to spend time along the Atlantic Coast in particular. Nicolas and Camille shared some excellent tips, and I had a few destinations already in mind. I also consider traveling to Nice and flying to another destination for a few weeks, the Atlantic Coast of Belgium, the Western Balkans, and Italy. I quickly check temperatures and realize I am not gaining anything. I'll keep these on the list for when the weather starts to cool after the Camino, perhaps? Bordeaux, France, was on my list before arriving in France. I explore it further; I like the options there. Lastly, the Pyrénées Mountains along the southern border of France are also on my list. As I head out the door, my host reminds me that there are enormous wildfires south of Bordeaux. "Le feu sont plus grand que la Ville de Paris!" he says (The fires are larger than the city of Paris). I thank him for the tip, something worth digging into later.

This afternoon, I am headed to the old town of Perpignan. People in France have been living in cities for a long time. Most cities today comprise an old city with beautiful historical sites and a newer modern town that surrounds the ancient city. Perpignan is no different. The city's history, however, is much different and represents another part of the Middle Ages. Perpignan is located close to the border of Spain; therefore shares influences from both modern-day countries. 

Perpignan is a large city, with the metro area encompassing nearly 270,000 people. Yet, it feels much smaller. The city is situated at the foot of the Pyrénées Mountains and is the last major French city on the way to Spain or the first major French city after you leave Spain, depending on which way you travel. I notice that people speak both French and Spanish here. An interesting fact about Perpignan I came across while writing this post is that the city is well known for its garnet trade industry. Garnet is a deep red gemstone associated with the root (grounding) and sacral (creative expression) chakras.

I had no idea that Perpignan was tied to this industry. Moreover, I can't explain how I would end up here at this point in my travels. I remember listening to Join Us in France, where Annie's guest talked about Earth Energy Lines. Ha! Annie wasn't convinced they existed either. Regardless of the reason, I have resigned myself to accepting that the Universe works in mysterious ways and some things require no explanation. It does seem like a good place for me to be at the moment, though, don't you agree? 

Perpignan constantly changed hands in the Middle Ages between France, Majorca, and Aragon (Spain). It was ceded to France via the Treaty of the Pyrénées in 1649. It has remained part of France ever since. The Kingdom of Majorca, a Catalan Kingdom, was founded in 1229 AD. A little over 100 years later, the Kingdom had been vanquished by the Kingdom of Aragon. While under Majorca rule, Perpignan was the capital, and although much of the infrastructure no longer exists, two important buildings remain. The first is this city's main gate and defense tower on the edge of the old town, Le Castillet. The adjoining city walls no longer exist. All that remains is the main gate to the Majorcan city of Perpignan. I can walk around the entire Castillet, but there is no place for public entry. The other three sides are simply red brick vertical walls. Le Castillet is a magnificent structure!

West of Le Castillet is the River Basse. The picture below looks southwardly, where outdoor markets line both banks.

The view as I walk through Le Castillet main gate.

The Old Town has red marble sidewalks. I love how it looks and, more importantly, how it feels underfoot. I really enjoy walking on it! Even though marble is a natural stone, it is relatively soft (i.e., not durable) and polishes to a high luster. As a result, walking on it feels smooth, silky, and almost springy compared to concrete or granite. The old town's side streets are red granite, which feels way harder on my feet, yet still has a beautiful look.

The other significant building is the Le Palais des Rois de Marjorque (Palace of the Kings of Majorca). The Palace is located behind this massive wall used to defend it. This wall surrounds the Palace in the shape of a star. Imagine having this gigantic wall in your neighborhood.

Once behind the walls, I get a view of the Palais.

Inside the courtyard, I understand what the attraction is. This site is incredibly well preserved. Here I am looking at the church that sits opposite the King's Chambers via a courtyard.

It has many fantastic features like this beautiful wooden door.

Another great door. This angular door, when closed, is framed by a round archway. Notice the massive hinges on the left, the studs on the door, and the metal L-strap used to secure the bolt.

This door also catches my eye.

The round stained glass window in the chamber above the church is magnificent.

And so is this niche. Notice how worn the stone on the floor is. The picture is deceiving; it appears like it was built that way. The other niche in this room is perfectly flat.

The dining hall below was one of my favorite rooms. The beautiful window, the terra cotta floor tile, and contrasting green ceramic tiles catch my eye.

The other side of the courtyard looks towards the King's chambers (below). Here's a link to additional information on the Palais des Rois de Majorique; it includes a view from the top of the tower. It was spectacular to see the 360 panoramic views. From the top, I could see the Mediterannean Ocean to the east and the mountains to the south and west.

I head to Casa Sansa, just south of Le Castillet, for dinner. Everything on the menu comes with Frites de la Maison (home fries). I order a demi-bouteille (half bottle) of Rosé and the Xurrasco de Boef with Frites de la Maison. Xurrasco (Churrasco) is a Spanish word meaning grilled meat. This brochette of grilled beef is delicately marinated in a light curry before being grilled. The marinade is very subtle, yet the distinct taste of curry is noticeable. The home fries are salted perfectly, which surprises me. French people seldom salt their fries. This was a simple meal, yet, it was the gastronomic experience I needed, different and local.

I return to my Airbnb with AC. I turn on the unit, and it quickly cools the room. I pull out my laptop and start my investigative work for Bordeaux. Unfortunately, the situation is not good. The large fire, located south of Bordeaux, results from arson and has burned 19,000+ ha (47,000+ ac). Approximately 34,000 people have been evacuated, including many tourists from the area. The other minor fire, 2,630 ha (6,500 ac), is located near Arcachon, France, a place I wanted to experience while in Bordeaux. The fires are approximately 32 km (20 mi) south and southwest of Bordeaux. Refer to the map below.

I have spent the last two summers in Colorado, United States. Wildfires and those started by arson are not a new experience to me. During the summer of 2020, it rained ash in my driveway for days while a fire burned west of Fort Collins, Colorado. I have no interest in spending another summer under skies of smoke and ash. I decide to cross Bordeaux off my list for the time being.