Today, I wake, take my time, and leave my Airbnb around 930 am. Ireland is in a wet cycle this week. The rain here this time of year is more light and steady than a heavy torrential storm. It can rain multiple times an hour, it comes and goes like the wind. The rain last night was an exception. The wind and rain pounded the house all night. This morning, the wind has finally let go and the rain is light once again. I stop in Falcarragh, and grab a takeaway breakfast, from a local coffee shop. Breakfast consists of a slice of quiche, Irish coleslaw, and couscous mixed green salad. It hits the spot. I eat in the car, then leave town sometime after 10 am.
I make my way south towards Ardara, I am particularly interested in Megalithic Dolems. Megalithic meaning pre-historic. Dolem means portal tombs. Portal tombs are quite amazing structures. They are comprised of two or more vertical stones that support a large horizontal capstone. The capstone is usually flat. The photos I have seen of these structures are spectacular! I am looking to get a sense of what these really look and feel like in person. Dolems date back to 4000-6000 B.C. The Kilclooney Dolem is one of the finest examples of a portal tomb in all of Ireland. Good news, it just happens to be in County Donegal. After passing the wee town of Lettermacaward, known simply as Leitir (Light tier), I stop to grab these photos of a long bay that dumps into the Atlantic Ocean. It is 1230 now, the rain has yielded to mild sunshine, and the tide is out. This first photo is looking north.
Looking south towards Leitir which is on the opposite side of the bay and not visible.
It is now a little past 1 pm when I arrive at the site. It is raining again. On the backside of a church, I notice a mowed path that leads up a small incline, the path to Kilclooney Dolem, I wonder? I put on my boots, gaiters, grab my trekking poles, and rain jacket before heading up. The path passes through private land, along the side of a house, and a series of gates. The walk-up is gentle, just a little over 700 yards (< 700 m). It feels really good to be moving about. It feels even better to have the wet sod underfoot. I do miss this and the sound of the splashing of water with every step. I am really enjoying having wet boots again. I get my first glimpse of the Kilclooney after a short walk up a little hill. The massive capstone is skylighted against the horizon. A younger couple blows by me about halfway up to the dolem. I am envious of how they move about with such ease.
From a distance, the capstone looks like an eagle or tortoise perched on top of the supporting stones (a.k.a megaliths). It takes me about 20 minutes to make the walk up from the street, through the pastures, up to Kilclooney. As I arrive the clouds give way and let the sun through. How is that for timing? Lucky? Coincidence? Is the universe watching out for me? It matters not, I am enjoying the gift. Below is a picture of Kilclooney looking south.
Looking west.
The MASSIVE capstone sits precariously perched atop three megaliths. I estimate the capstone to be approximately 11-12 feet (3.5 m) across the front in the picture above. It nears 20 feet (6 m) in length, front to back. I am in awe and humbled once again. How was it placed? Where did the stone come from? I take a moment, admire the engineering feat in front of me, and think of how it could be duplicated without the use of modern machinery.
A view inside the portal reveals that a round rock (back of photo) was used as a support. This capstone has been in place, thanks to this wee rock, for nearly 8,000 years. Let that sink in for a moment...I'll repeat myself. Some 8,000 years ago humans had the means and knowledge to move these massive stones into positions like this. Before I left Fort Collins, Colorado, with the help of my good friend Drew, we installed an 800 lbs (363 kg) landscape boulder in my front yard. We moved the rock using simple fulcrums and leverage. There is no way we could have lifted the heavy rock completely off the ground. Here I stand looking at a rock that is suspended 7 ft (2 m) off the ground and weighs probably 10-20 times more. MAGNIFICENT! The close-up below shows the wee rock in the back, as well as the barren interior floor of the portal tomb, just behind the vertical flat stone in the foreground.
I squat down to look inside and notice the wee rock is not even in full contact with the stone beneath it. Truly AMAZING! Notice the gaps on either side of the point of contact.
Looking west towards the smaller dolem.
As I wrap up my visit at Kilclooney, a lady and her two little ones walk up. I overhear her tell her kids, this is as close as we can get, it's too boggy to get any closer. The kids express their disappointment. I notice they are all wearing running shoes. Not ideal footwear for slogging through the wet bog. I walk uphill slightly looking to get another photo of the site from a different angle when I notice a potential dry path. I walk over, introduce myself, and offer to guide them to the site along the path I recently noticed. I show them the way and soon the two kids are off running to the attraction. "Who would have thought that a Canadian-American would be showing us how to walk through a bog in our own country", Julie says. I laugh, I've had a wee bit of experience and share with her my travel story. "Do you like a pint of Guinness? Do you know where Portrush is? Go to the Atlantic Bar, tell them that Patty and Julie Clyde sent ya. They'll treat ya right and they pour a fine pint of Guinness!", Julie says with a smile. I am hoping to be there in the next week. "I used to work there, wonderful people there. They'll take good care of you", assures me, Julie.
I leave them to enjoy the site in solitude. I take pleasure in enjoying sites in solitude and am mindful to extend the same respect to others whenever I can. On my slow walk back through the pastures, I notice a wonderful feeling welling up from deep inside of me. Here I am by myself in a foreign country, surrounded by the unknown, with few supporting resources. I reflect for a moment and notice that not once have I felt alone or isolated. In fact, I feel more connected than ever. I think of all the great Irish people I've met so far who have never hesitated to extend their kindness, share their knowledge, explore their curiosity, and offer their support. I think of friends and family back home, who encouraged, supported, and assisted me in getting here. At this moment, the feeling I'm sitting with as I walk back can only be described as unconditional love. What a magnificent feeling. When I arrive at the car, it clouds up again, and the rain begins to fall.
As I pass through Ardara, I stop to purchase some of the "Expensive F***ing Petrol." LOL! I realize I am at the same gas station that I visited when I was last here. Then it occurs to me, that the last time I was here, I was also in pain following a 20-mile walk from Glencolumbkille. I laugh to myself and smile, as I hobble to the restroom. After the stop, I head further south towards the town of Sligo (sly go). There's another site I want to see. This one is in a state park and is more "touristy". The rain continues. I've turned on Spotify, and am streaming Paul Simon's Graceland album. An album that we wore out when I was a teenager traveling in the car with Mom and Dad. I love this album. It's just right for today and it feels great to listen to music.
I arrive at Carrowmore Megalithic Complex a little around 415 pm. They close at 5 pm. As I walk into the visitor's center, I ask if I will have time to see the entire site. The clerk tells me yes. In fact, he is willing to afford me extra time past 5 pm. "We turn away new admittance at 5 pm. You can return around a quarter past," the clerk says. I pay my 5 quids (5 ponds. 1 quid = 1 pound). The site has mowed paths which makes walking easy, I appreciate that. Below is a photo of the wild daisies and buttercups growing in the unmoved sections.
Carrowmore is a huge complex of ancient sites, the surrounding landscape includes some 50 tombs, many stone circles, and other ancient sites. The historic park comprises only a small portion of the complex. Sadly, many of the sites in the area have been disturbed or robbed by a local Irishman, Roger Walker, who owned much of the land in the area between 1830 and 1850. Interested only in the treasures, he often discarded human remains out into the bog when he encountered them. The highlight of the site is the cairn at Site 51. The huge cairn is 111 ft (34 m) in diameter. The cairn has been reconstructed and surrounds another large, also reconstructed, portal tomb. Below is the circular cairn at Site 51.
The entrance to the portal tomb is barely visible in the back of the photo.
Side profile view of the portal tomb
I reach the visitor's center around a quarter past and watch the clerk close up behind me. As I pass the surrounding pastures and private lands, I see several examples of additional sites. Some look even more impressive than the ones I saw at the historic site. I'm starting to understand just how big this area really is. The evening is predicted to be unsettled again with more rain and wind. I opt to stay dry by booking an Airbnb in Ballysadare, about 5.5 mi (9 km) southwest of Sligo. I consider driving back to Sligo to grab dinner and listen to music at a local pub. I decide to pass. I'm feeling worn out. I got around fairly well today, which I enjoyed enormously. I am thankful today was a good day. My body cooperated, it articulated well. However, I think I underestimated how much energy my hobbling around takes. Instead, I decide to stay in and utilize the time to connect back home via WiFi calling.
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